Over the last eleven years of being a barista, pulling the “perfect espresso” has been a target I’ve always been chasing.

Whether dialling in the single origin in the morning before the first customer walks in the door or working with a lot of coffee that I’m using for competition – I tell myself that there is a “perfect” expression for this coffee and I just need to find it.

The longer we work as baristas, the more we realise how little we know about coffee, and it’s easy to get lost down the rabbit hole of extraction theory all for the pursuit of excellence.

As a barista competitor, I’ve dedicated countless hours to achieving the best espresso possible. This meant testing countless variables and making incremental changes to my approach so I could realise what it brought to the cup.

Having put this work in, I’d like to share how I approach a new coffee I’ve never tried before.

Control the controllables

Anyone standing behind the espresso machine will receive a bag of coffee containing uncontrollable factors, such as its processing method, roast date, and how long it’s been stored.

But we have the coffee and the machine needed to extract it – so that’s what we need to focus on.

As such, we must understand as much as we can about these two elements. For example, we need to identify the roast level and how hard or soft the brew water is.

This can vary a lot, and without specialised equipment to measure these factors, it can be difficult. However, we’re pulling the perfect espresso shot here, so tools like a spectrophotometer – which uses infrared light to determine roast degree – can help get specific when dialling in.

For the sake of this example, we’ll be brewing a medium roast using Melbourne tap water – which is soft, sitting around 50 to 60 parts per million (ppm).

Most baristas understand the impact of roast level on coffee’s solubility, but many don’t realise that water hardness plays an equally important role. In the case of Melbourne’s soft water, it contains fewer mineral ions, which leads to more efficient extraction as it allows for better dissolution of coffee solids – resulting in higher extraction yields.

As such, it’s important to know if you’re working with hard or soft water. It doesn’t have to be down to the part per million, a general ballpark will do.

In this instance, I’d set the water temperature to 93.5 degrees with a pump pressure of 9 Bars, and use a 20g basket.

Puck preparation

The perfect espresso can live or die with its puck preparation. There are many different ways to approach this – by hand, or using one of a thousand tools that exist on the market today.

For me, I prefer the Stockfleth method. This means using your index finger to sweep the surface of the coffee with a slight downward pressure to evenly distribute the coffee around the basket. Alternatively, coffee needle distribution tools run needles through the entire coffee bed, distributing it evenly from top to bottom.

Regardless of the method you choose, the goal is not just a flat surface; but achieving an even density of coffee grounds throughout the entire puck of coffee. This will ensure even extraction; plus, it will mean your coffee reacts more consistently in response to your brew variables.

Brew variables

There are a myriad of variables that influence the outcome of your espresso. To understand their individual effects in the cup, it’s important to only adjust one at a time.

To begin, we need a starting recipe. With limited information at this point, I usually start with a coffee-to-water ratio of 1:2. For this example, 20g of coffee in the basket would mean 40g of liquid espresso. I’d aim for an extraction time of between 24 and 32 seconds. We may zero in on this variable at the end, but that’s a good range to start with.

So now to taste the first espresso! 

How does it taste?

I try to avoid using words like “good”, “bad”, or “under/over-extracted” because there are many individual subtleties in espresso, and these terms don’t aid our decision-making process for the next steps.

Instead, I think about “taste”, “balance”, “sweetness”, “acidic”, and “bitterness” – scoring them from low, medium, to high. 

My primary goal is to achieve a balanced espresso. Balance doesn’t necessarily mean that sweetness, acidity, and bitterness all have to be at medium levels; it’s about how these elements harmonise to create a delicious espresso. If they work together, we’ve done our job.

Next comes texture. An espresso can be creamy and heavy, or light with a delicate silky mouthfeel. In general, a lower yield will result in a heavier body, as the liquid espresso will contain a higher concentration of dissolved coffee compared to a shot with a higher yield – where more brew water has passed through it.

Having said this, each coffee has its own unique mouthfeel – experiment until you have achieved what you (and your customers) are looking for.

There’s no right or wrong here – the key is to ensure it remains balanced, not losing sight of how the espresso feels on your palate. In fact, a well-textured espresso is a sign of excellent extraction.

Finally, consider the flavour. I’ve sometimes focused too much on achieving specific tasting notes, like citrus fruits, only to realise I’ve made an espresso with high acidity and no sweetness. Tasting notes should follow a well-extracted espresso, not the other way around. 

In other words, a good barista will allow the natural flavours of the coffee to shine through – honouring the quality of the raw materials – rather than adjusting your brew parameters in an attempt to squeeze out the flavour profile you desire.

In most cases, customers prefer a balanced espresso over one that tastes like sour candy!

Adjusting brew parameters

Following the principle of altering only one variable at a time, I start with yield, then dose, then time.

To start with, I either increase or decrease the yield. For instance, if the espresso is intense with high acidity, low bitterness, and a grainy texture, this would tell me to increase extraction through yield. Alternatively, if the espresso is thin, watery, with a lingering bitterness, this would suggest I should reduce the yield.

Once we have achieved a well-balanced espresso, you can adjust the dose while maintaining the same brew ratio. For instance, if you start with 20g of ground coffee for 40g of liquid espresso, you can scale it to 21g:42g. This keeps a similar overall flavour profile but enables you to lock in what tastes the best.

Lastly, I use “time” to fine-tune the espresso. As a general rule, longer contact time between brew water and coffee reduces acidity and increases bitterness. This is a brief, final step to minor adjustments.

No right or wrong

My approach isn’t inherently right or wrong. Regardless of your chosen method, unlocking coffee’s full potential is a rewarding and exciting journey.

But with our ever-changing preferences, does the perfect shot of espresso exist? I believe it does.

What makes coffee so fascinating (and frustrating, at times) is its subjectivity. I might enjoy something that others might not, but we don’t have to be world barista champions or certified judges to make or appreciate the perfect espresso. What matters most is that it’s what we like – that’s what makes it perfect.

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In recent years, advancements in automation, measurement tools and brewing equipment have not only enabled better workflow but also a more thorough understanding of coffee’s behaviour when we brew it.

Some quality assessment methods based around cupping have allowed actors across the industry to attribute a numerical score to coffee. However, these protocols often rely on years of practice and proper taste calibration, which can be variable, time-consuming and subject to unconscious biases. 

In 2008, technology company Voice Systems Technology (VST) Inc. began releasing products targeted at the coffee industry. Among these was the LAB Coffee Refractometer, a device that enables the user to measure the extraction and total dissolved solids (TDS) of liquid coffee – providing a more scientific approach. 

They work by measuring the deflection of light as it passes through an object. By observing how light refracts as it touches the coffee, a refractometer provides a TDS measurement, which can be used to establish the percentage extraction yield, or the percentage of extracted material within the total brew liquid.

This can give a barista quick and precise insight into their extraction, and generally allows a deeper understanding of what occurs during the brew process.

Prior to recent rule changes, refractometers measured the TDS of each coffee and ensured consistency at the World Brewers Cup Championships.

Given their usefulness in elevating quality and improving consistency, it would make sense for refractometers to be a common tool used in coffee shops. So why is this not the case?

Refractometers’ place in coffee shops

Over the years, an increasing number of tools have found their way onto coffee bars across the specialty sector. Distribution tools and automatic tampers help to improve extraction and consistency, for example. However, despite their shared purpose, coffee refractometers are nowhere to be seen.

“It can be that using the refractometer can slow down the workflow, especially in busy shops,” says Izabela Fortini, international sales manager at The Barn. “In my experience, it is mostly used only during the development of a new recipe, and for the quality control of these recipes, but not usually when the shop is busy.”

Using coffee refractometers is relatively straightforward, but it does require training. The protocol to ensure accurate measurements, as well as proper refractometer maintenance, may make it impractical for some coffee shops without the necessary time and resources for such training. Despite this barrier, Izabela believes the investment in staff training is worth it.

“Investing in good personal and on-site training is the key to a successful coffee shop, and in my experience the more the baristas learn, the more they fall in love with the product,” she says. “And this always makes them care for the quality.”

While not ubiquitous across the sector, certain specialty coffee shops have made this investment. However, with the growing presence of autonomous technology, we may begin to see fewer and fewer refractometers.

A recent report estimates that automation in the coffee industry will be worth over £3 billion in the next three years. This indicates a growing preference for a more efficient workflow and a systematic approach to quality – in contrast to the manual approach a refractometer represents. 

Is it not more about taste?

Many would argue that the numbers provided by a refractometer are less important than the actual taste of the coffee.

Furthermore, as specialty coffee expands into new audiences and attempts to shed its “elitist” reputation, it could be considered misguided for refractometers and TDS measurements to dictate what “quality” is, rather than the preferences of consumers.

For many, however, it’s not one or the other. On the contrary, refractometers can be a useful tool in reaffirming quality and taste assessments, or to help train new baristas.

“I think that for quality control and for learning this tool is essential,” says Izabela. “Nevertheless, learning how to taste and being able to understand extraction is something that all good baristas need to know how to do.”

“I believe that taste is always more important, when you have a good barista they will use it as a tool to help. When the barista is not so experienced they will use it as a tool to learn, making the refractometer a very important tool to have in a quality coffee shop.”

As such, the usefulness of refractometers in coffee shops depends on what they are used for, and how they are integrated into training, service, and quality assessment.

“Using refractometers when you are dialling in your espresso in the morning is very important, and of course during the training of new baristas and new coffee recipes,” Izabela says.  

“I believe that the refractometer can help with quality control and consistency of the recipes on a day-to-day basis. In the long term, it helps with optimisation of recipes, and helps new baristas to understand extraction and how to taste the coffee.” 

Ultimately, the best approach will vary from one coffee shop to another – depending on their unique needs, and their capacity to incorporate the tool into their operations.

“I think the refractometer is important and will continue to be very important in the future,” Izabela says. “Even with new equipment, we will always need the baristas to know how to taste and this tool is excellent to help us learn and keep us calibrated.” 

Italy’s biggest coffee event is set to return in under a week, offering three days of exhibitions, competitions, educational sessions, and more.

Between December 2 and 4, the annual event will welcome thousands of attendees, including qualified hospitality buyers and decision-makers from the coffee, hospitality and food service industries. 

The eagerly anticipated sixth edition of Milan Coffee Festival will be hosted at the Superstudio Più venue.

Given the extensive lineup, we’ve put together a guide showcasing the highlights of Milan Coffee Festival 2023.

Skills will be put to the test at Roast Masters

With a brand new format, Roast Masters makes a triumphant return to Milan Coffee Festival 2023.

In this year’s competition, roasters will participate in four rounds (qualifying rounds, quarter-finals, semi-finals, and the final). They will compete in eight disciplines:

1. Espresso Presentation: Roasters have 12 minutes to present an espresso from their coffee portfolio.

2. Cupping Table: Competitors create a roast profile of a mystery single origin coffee using the Stronghold S7 Pro sample roaster, with judging based on taste and flavour.

3. Espresso Smackdown: Roasters enter light and medium roast single origins and a blend in head-to-head competitions.

4. Order Challenge: Competitors prepare 10 drinks listed on a given order within 9 minutes, judged on balance, extraction, mouthfeel and handling.

5. Latte Art Showdown: Roasters pour latte art based on an assigned shape, with appearances judged.

6. Brew Face-Off: Roasters present a filter roast from their portfolio, judged on taste, presentation, and showmanship.

7. Signature Drink: Roasters create a signature beverage in 12 minutes using mystery ingredients, judged on taste, creativity, professionalism, presentation and showmanship.

8. Espresso Blend: Roasters craft a bespoke espresso blend using mystery single origin coffees, presenting an espresso and cappuccino for evaluation.

Competitors will be roasting live – with the pressure of the crowd and no room for mistakes. They will be using the small-batch electric roaster from Stronghold, the S7 Pro.

The winner will be crowned Roast Masters MCF 2023 champion and take home a €2500 cash prize.

Get involved with Latte Art Live

Despite the rise of cutting-edge milk-frothing technology, latte art continues to be a revered skill in the coffee industry.

Latte Art Live at Milan Coffee Festival 2023 will include workshops, masterclasses, and one-on-one competitions, all dedicated to celebrating the highly sought-after craft.

Featuring world-renowned latte artists, this interactive zone allows visitors to watch and participate in hands-on workshops and demonstrations – where they can learn the skills required to create beautiful latte art designs.

The three-day programme includes daily latte art throwdowns and lessons on achieving exceptional results with plant milks.

Italy’s finest roasters at Milan Coffee Festival 2023

As with previous events, the Roasters Village continues to be a staple – gathering the finest specialty coffee roasters Italy has to offer in one place.

As the room fills with the smell of roasted coffee, and the soothing hiss of steam wands meets the hum of conversation, attendees are encouraged to sample and explore what the local coffee community has to offer.

Some roasters present at Milan Coffee Festival 2023 include: Cortinovis Coffee, Etna Roaster, Gust Coffee Roasters, Picapau Coffee Roastery, Pizzicoffee, Wide Awake Coffee

This stands to be an important weekend for Milan’s coffee scene on a wider scale, too. Many businesses across the city will be gearing up for three days of welcoming people eager to explore the thriving local specialty coffee scene. For example, Nowhere Coffee Roasters intend to make the most of the three days.

“We’ll have a booth in the Roasters Village as we did last year,” says Luciano Bramante co-founder of Nowhere Coffee Roasters. “We’ll also host a few events in our brand new coffee shop, such as public cupping and crowdfunding in order to support a Colombian coffee farm.”

“The crowdfunding campaign is being organised by The Coffee Quest, green coffee importers that are good friends of ours and that we buy a lot of green from.”

This demonstrates the wider impact an event like Milan Coffee Festival can have, both locally and beyond. It not only offers attending brands a chance to gain visibility and coffee professionals to explore the latest innovations in the sector, but it also serves as an opportunity for the host country to demonstrate the kind of coffee community it has and the values it upholds.

“During a festival like this one, we try to focus on coffee and sustain initiatives like the one with The Coffee Quest,” says Luciano.

And as Milan Coffee Festival continues to grow and scale, so too will the opportunities it generates for the wider coffee community.

“I’m happy to see that Milan Coffee Festival is growing year after year, attracting new foreign professionals to come to Italy and contributing to the overall European coffee scene.”

As a kid, I often wondered what my favourite sports players did when they “retired from the game.” Our Springbok Rugby World Cup winning team recently completed their country-wide trophy tour and I’m sure a few of them will be hanging up their boots soon. It’s always sad to see them go. 

I was on a local TV show a couple of years ago and I referred to the short-lived experience of a barista champion being like that of a beauty pageant winner. I attempted to make the point that the experience can be fleeting – as soon as your title reign ends, the new champion is quickly whisked in, and your name can easily be forgotten.

Awkwardly, the host assumed that I had presumed to be the best-looking barista!

Rugby tournaments and beauty pageants aside, I like to think that coffee competitions can have the opposite outcome. They can often act as a catalyst to propel someone’s career forward either through competition success, set innovations, relationship building, or increasing visibility.

Brand building and marketing

I had the benefit and honour of winning back-to-back South African titles in 2017 and 2018. I also had a third “extended title” because my 2020 win was followed by multiple WBC postponements due to Covid-19. This meant that my years as South African Barista Champion were far from fleeting – and I like to think I made the most of it. 

Coming from a global south country, it can be difficult to organically create a platform for yourself without winning a world competition. However, I was fortunate to be a part of a global ambassador program with Urnex which opened a door to a global network, and I rode the wave of marketing opportunities off the back of competition success.

This is where I put in the work. I travelled; I sacrificed; I was present at events; and I made myself available to the community as a champion.

Apparently, this was a smart move because I made myself accessible and marketable. (At the time, I just wanted to have fun and attend all the events I could). Lo and behold, more brand ambassador opportunities, TV show appearances, and magazine features followed. 

Looking back, I could have monetised the situation to better effect. However, it did give me a platform and opened opportunities that would not have come my way otherwise. And I’ve seen other competitors follow suit.

Relationships and networking

This process exposed me to conversations with many different people – both in coffee and from other industries. I like to refer to myself as a natural “connector”, which helped me build important relationships with many of the interesting people I met. These developed into cherished friendships, as well as business opportunities, that would not have been accessible had I not won a barista competition.

Of course, my business and the partners and clients I work with benefit from a certain level of reputability that comes with winning a national competition.

And even though these competitions are a foreign concept to most outside of coffee, people are generally keen to learn more. Whether it be the set theme, the equipment, or the coffee itself, there is usually an element that can pique someone’s interest – creating an opportunity to broaden your network and connect with people you may not have otherwise.

Developing skills and gaining knowledge

It’s important to remember that competing in a coffee competition comes with a considerable amount of preparation. Especially for the World Barista Championships, it takes planning, research, practice, blood, sweat, and tears. Maybe not the blood.

It’s a unique situation that drives you to deepen your knowledge and elevate your skillset. This doesn’t simply dissipate once the stage lights turn off and the focus shifts to next year’s competition.

The competitor walks away forever changed, carrying a newfound understanding of the industry – or at least, a part of it. And this is often shared with the wider community.

I remember walking away from my first barista competition with the ability to pour four milk drinks while engaging meaningfully with my judges. What might seem like an easy task to some was a big challenge I struggled to overcome in my early days as a barista. This skill followed me back to the coffee bar, meaning that I could produce higher-quality drinks and improve my customer service – something I’ve endeavoured to teach others.

The interesting thing to consider here is that competitors are all so different. For example, I thrive on the relationship and human element in coffee. Others are drawn to technological or agricultural innovations. These differences embody a pool of diverse skills that can feed back into the industry.

There is no other situation like it – where a practitioner can gain such a nuanced understanding of an aspect of the industry and share that with the world. As such, it’s important to nurture the knowledge and skills generated as a result of coffee competitions and implement them in the workplace.

Now What?

From a broad perspective, the benefits that come with being a champion can’t be kept for the individual – they surely must extend to the wider coffee community. 

Competitors need to understand that there’s a “buy-in” – if you win, you become an ambassador. The WBC rules clearly state that judges are looking for a champion who “may serve as a role model and a source of inspiration for others”.

This is the primary role of a barista champion, not only during the competition and the title reign but afterwards, too. In my view, this means there’s an implicit duty for champions to contribute to the betterment of the coffee industry – beginning locally, and shifting globally if the opportunity arises.

In short, I believe champions should inspire, grow, challenge, change, and educate.

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This article is the first in a series exploring the prevailing attitude towards mistakes in the specialty coffee sector. The series is being produced in collaboration with Heylo Coffee, who are eager to kickstart a conversation around “mistakes” – beginning on a road to normalising them.

In the specialty coffee sector, there is a culture of meticulousness and striving for excellence. In some instances, this can lead to an air of perfectionism, where mistakes are looked down upon. This can put undue pressure on many actors across the industry, creating unnecessary stress.

Heylo is seeking to reverse this narrative: Mistakes do happen; and embracing them could foster a more open, healthy, and constructive environment.

This collaborative series will look at common mistakes made by baristas, coffee roasters, and coffee shop owners – not in an effort to expose people working in those roles; but to embrace failure as part of the process, and as part of life.

Barista mistakes

In the specialty coffee sector, baristas are focused – even fixated – on producing the best cup of coffee possible. This dedication stems from a good place: a genuine desire to improve and provide customers with the best possible coffee experience.

However, it can mean that other satellite tasks fall by the wayside. More often than not, the task that gets neglected is cleaning.

“A lack of cleaning is probably one of the most common mistakes that new baristas, and sometimes even old baristas, make,” says Alessandro Zengiaro, UK Latte Art Champion and head of technical for Assembly Coffee and Volcano Coffeeworks.

This often means baristas prioritise cleaning customer-facing spaces, but other functional areas get overlooked.

“Sometimes you look at the portafilter, take the basket out and it’s pitch black,” says Alessandro. “Cleaning can affect not just the taste of the coffee, which as a coffee drinker is my first concern, but also how the machine and the grinders operate.”

Indeed, cleaning isn’t just an aesthetic choice; avoiding it can have real consequences. Yet, this places significant responsibility on baristas to maintain expensive equipment.

Furthermore, there are certain myths surrounding coffee machine maintenance that can be difficult for new baristas to navigate. For example, while a thorough end-of-day clean is crucial, some baristas are commonly taught to soak their steam wands overnight – a situation where the chemicals and water can actually do damage.

As such, the responsibility to upkeep equipment can be a heavy burden, especially with a number of myths surrounding the subject. Recognising this could help to take the weight off for some baristas. 

Common technical barista mistakes

This problem is not limited to coffee machine clean-downs, of course. The entire process of brewing coffee is littered with myths and misconceptions. Just within the process of preparing the coffee puck, baristas are often taught techniques that can actually harm the quality of the extraction. 

For instance, tapping the tamper against the portafilter can create cracks and channels in the coffee bed; similarly, spinning the tamper can negate all the work done by a well-executed tamp.

Tamping with robotic-like consistency every time is difficult to master, to say the least. Yet, when espresso shots invariably pull at different speeds, baristas can become overly critical of their technique. This is just one more instance of how the demanding standards in specialty coffee can create unnecessary stress.

In response, the sector could embrace a more open and accepting approach to these sorts of mistakes. Not only are they inevitable – we are human, after all – but it could also foster a positive learning environment where baristas feel at ease; rather than stressed and anxious. 

Automatic tampers are becoming ubiquitous, and act as a solution to help mitigate some of these stresses. However, there are certain areas that automation can’t help with.

Dialling in

For example, dialling in coffee is a difficult skill to master – with many factors to consider and remember all at the same time. As such, it is easy to forget or overlook something.

“I see a lot of baristas change the grind size and try a shot, but it’s still the same extraction time – not realising that, due to retention, the previous change hasn’t kicked in yet,” says Josh.

Furthermore, the number of purges required can vary from one grinder to another. So, even if you remember to flush the chamber, a different grinder may make that process more challenging.

In general, dialling in coffee can be stressful for baristas, especially when the coffee shop is about to open. Some coffee shops only allocate 30 minutes to open, from setting up tables and chairs to dialling in the coffee.

Many people work more efficiently in a relaxed environment, and while it’s not always easy to control that in a coffee shop, allowing baristas enough time to dial in their coffee in the morning can set a relaxed tone for the day and improve productivity.

Re-steaming milk

For many baristas, especially those new to the job, steaming milk is where the most danger lies. Often a barista will judge themselves (and be judged) by the quality of their latte art. Indeed, this can become a point of frustration as it can be so difficult to perfect.

Specialty coffee shops frequently establish minimum latte art standards, which can create certain expectations and pressure regarding your skill level.

However, when it comes down to it, imperfect latte art doesn’t necessarily diminish the quality of the drink – as long as the texture and temperature of the milk are well-executed. Essentially, not being able to pour a beautiful rosetta isn’t the end of the world.

Yet, there are certain tips and tricks that will allow baristas to produce better milk. For example,  re-steaming milk is one of the most common barista mistakes in specialty coffee shops. The chemical changes that occur during steaming can not simply be repeated. Instead, the milk further deteriorates, the proteins and sugars will break down even more, and foam stability will diminish. It is therefore best to discard leftover milk after each pour.

However, this must be managed alongside wastage. For new baristas, it can be difficult to judge the correct amount of milk to pour into the jug. This is a reason why automated milk-frothing technology, such as Heylo’s milk module, is becoming increasingly popular. Not only is it able to create a perfect texture every time; but it can also consistently dose the ideal amount of milk – greatly minimising wastage.

Having the right attitude

In the specialty coffee sector, some argue that baristas should have an even greater focus on “service”.

“When I say service, I mean you are here to sell me something special,” Alessandro says. “We’re making specialty coffee, right? Tell me something about that.”

Indeed, this is especially relevant for specialty coffee where there is a greater emphasis on quality, how producers are innovating to improve value, and how the supply chain can be transparent about that.

As such, specialty coffee baristas have a level of responsibility in explaining that information to customers, conveying “the extra value of what you’re doing and what you’re serving”, according to Alessandro.

In a broader sense, this reflects a general mindset of successful baristas in the specialty coffee industry. They approach their work with enthusiasm, take pride in their role within the coffee value chain, and are committed to delivering that value to their customers.

There are bound to be mistakes along the way. Alessandro suggests that a level of curiosity towards specialty coffee is a valuable trait – reflecting a drive for continuous growth and improvement.

“For me, talking to people was effective, or when I had the chance to visit other coffee shops and see different approaches,” says Alessandro.

This represents an openness to learning that some established baristas may find difficult to embrace. Indeed, the pursuit of perfection has contributed to the perception of specialty coffee as elitist. What’s often overlooked is that this can be harmful to those working within the industry, as well as customers on the outside.

As a barista working in specialty coffee, the potential for making mistakes is nearly limitless. Fostering a more constructive environment across the industry could be highly beneficial – not only for newcomers, but for everyone involved.

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In the early days, specialty coffee was closely associated with light roasted coffee; so much so that it became deeply ingrained in its ethos. Today, many in the industry are turning away from light roasts. Does this say something about the direction specialty coffee is headed?

In some ways, specialty coffee favoured light roasted coffee as a response to the dominant presence of dark roasts across the industry. It offered a way for brands to differentiate themselves from large, commercial coffee companies that adopted traditional roasting styles.

Leading the charge, roasters from Norway and Scandinavian countries drove the popularity of light roasted coffee. “Nordic-style” roasting started to gather momentum in the early 2000s, with Scandinavian baristas winning six of the first seven World Barista Championships.

Beyond the competition stage, influential Nordic roasters like Tim Wendelboe and Solberg & Hansen inspired the broader sector to roast lighter and celebrate the natural attributes of single origin coffees.

Indeed, this was the primary selling point of light roasted coffee. With less development time in the roasting process, the “varietal character” of the coffee is left intact. Unaffected by “roasty” flavours, specialty coffee’s light roasts tell the customer as much about the journey from farm to cup as possible.

Today, however, specialty coffee has grown in popularity to the point where it must appeal to a larger, wider audience. In this effort, brands are taking a broader approach to roasting.

Medium roasts for a broader audience

While light roasts have been celebrated within specialty coffee circles, they aren’t without criticism – often perceived as “sour” or “hay-like”.

In some ways, the rising popularity of medium roasts is a response to this. They act as a point of access for newcomers to specialty coffee – helping to bridge the gap between light roasts and what the sector’s growing audience has been previously familiar with.

At the same time, brands have started to shift away from designating their coffees to a particular roast level. Historically, light roasts have been associated with brewing filter coffee, while more developed roasts have been used for espresso.

And although coffee shops and consumers have embraced this characterisation, the increasing popularity of medium roasts and “omni roasts” – which are developed for all brewing styles – is seeing a diminishing focus on roast level to define coffee, and more emphasis on other features, such as flavour notes and processing. 

“There is definitely a lot of medium coffee out there, but I think more what has happened is the centre of what specialty coffee is has moved away from talking about things like roast levels,” says Josh Tarlo, founder of Headstand and former UK Barista Champion.

“I don’t think that light roasts have become less of a part of specialty – it’s more that the advertising around it is diminishing,” Josh says. 

While this may be the case, a broader push towards medium roasts has widened the scope of specialty coffee. Now, more balanced and traditionally “coffee-like” flavours exist to draw in new customers – customers that, before, may have been alienated by light roasts.

Is light roasted coffee old news?

In general, medium roasts cater more to what customers new to specialty coffee expect, or are familiar with. This also extends to the way in which consumers drink their coffee.

Historically, light roasted coffee was closely associated with pour overs, and a “no milk, no sugar” approach. However, a 2021 survey found over 70% of UK coffee consumers regularly drank their coffee with milk. As an increasing number of “regular” coffee consumers make the switch to specialty coffee, this is a figure the sector will have to take more seriously.

And as specialty coffee strives to capture a larger audience, milk-based drinks play a central role in that effort. For these drinks, medium roasts are often preferable because the flavours better complement milk; whereas the delicate flavours of light roasted coffee can be lost.

On top of this, light roasted coffee is often viewed as harder to work with. Given their higher bean density, brewing light roasts often requires a finer grind size. In some cases, this can cause extraction issues, such as channelling when brewing for espresso, which can lead to sour cup profiles.

In contrast, medium roasts are considered easier to work with and extract a balanced flavour profile from. In this sense, if coffee shops choose to turn away from using light roasts, this may be driven by pragmatism.

However, some believe light roasted coffee shouldn’t be painted with such broad brushstrokes. Furthermore, the familiarity that many consumers have with bitter flavours may make them more accepting and receptive to a poorly executed dark roast, but light roasts don’t benefit from the same level of lenience. 

“I don’t think light roasts are harder to work with, I just think that badly made light roasts do not complement milk that well and we are less used to those flavours,” says Josh. “Poorly brewed dark roast is not particularly nice, but dark sugar and slightly bitter flavours are very familiar to us, so it doesn’t get thought of in the same way.”

Despite having the odds against them, light roasted coffee has played a central role in the growth of specialty coffee. As such, consumers could be more attuned to them than originally thought.

“I think that the massive growth of specialty coffee during a period of using lighter roast shows that their reception has generally been positive,” Josh says.

Ultimately, while medium roasts are becoming more prevalent in the specialty coffee industry, it is a stretch to say they are replacing light roasts. Rather than pitting the two against each other, this shift can be seen as another step towards the growing appeal of specialty coffee – and a broadening of its horizons.

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For quite some time, the way that people drink coffee has been changing. It seemed inevitable, then, that it would cease to be limited by the daytime, and break into the night.

Historically, traditional 8am to 4pm operating hours haven’t given cafés much time to generate sales. However, the industry has evolved in recent years in a way that allows businesses to extend this window, and serve evening coffee.

For example, as a more health-conscious, younger demographic enters the consuming market, many are shifting away from alcohol and seeking spaces that provide an alternative to bars. In some cases, an evening coffee has become a popular choice – whether in a coffee shop, or at home.

“Coffee is often associated with social gatherings and spending time with friends,” says Vladyslav Demonenko, Ukrainian Brewer’s Cup Champion and World Vice Champion of Coffee in Good Spirits 2022. “In Ukraine, filter coffee is a popular choice for evening parties, along with craft beer or natural wine.”

Many find superautomatic coffee machines ideal for serving café-quality drinks at parties. For example, Carimali’s SilverTwin can create a variety of beverages at the touch of a button, making it especially useful when hosting guests. Furthermore, their ease of use frees up hosts to enjoy their company instead of worrying about the brewing process.

As more individuals become dedicated to home brewing, and seek to improve the quality of the coffee they drink in the house, they are also increasingly focused on creating quality coffee cocktails. In other words, the coffee prosumer has also become the at-home mixologist.

In this case, a superautomatic coffee machine offers the advantage of reliably producing a consistent and delicious shot of espresso. This allows the user to concentrate on the mixology aspect without having to worry about the coffee’s quality.

“With a superautomatic espresso machine, you can create a solid base for your drinks and let your imagination run wild,” says Vladyslav. “It’s simple – get nice beans and open a new world of coffee drinks.”

Caffeine + alcohol 

Cocktails serve as the primary and most obvious gateway for coffee into the evening hours. Nevertheless, caffeine is frequently consumed at night for other reasons. For instance, if someone feels sluggish, they might have an espresso shot to boost their energy.  

In a similar way, people may drink coffee to mask drunk behaviours, making them feel more alert or capable than they truly are. This can have dangerous consequences – not only because they may lose a sense of awareness, but also because it can give them a false sense of being able to consume more alcohol – leading to a risk of excessive drinking and the ramifications that come with that.

Furthermore, recent health studies advise against mixing alcohol and caffeine due to the heightened risk of dehydration, potentially causing dizziness. For this reason, many people choose to keep the two separate on their nights out.

This doesn’t mean that caffeine doesn’t become a part of their party experience somehow, however; but this typically happens the following morning.

“As someone with a medical degree, I can confidently say that coffee is not a cure for a hangover, ” Vladyslav says. “While coffee can help with focus, it’s not a solution if you’re already feeling unwell.”

Ultimately, if you’re choosing to mix caffeine and alcohol, it’s important to do so in moderation. However, enjoying an occasional evening coffee cocktail won’t harm anyone, and it creates an exciting opportunity for coffee to enter the nighttime. 

The future of evening coffee

Indeed, this could be an exciting moment for coffee and alcohol.

There are already a number of RTD coffee cocktails on the market, with espresso martini cans having a regular presence in some major food stores, for example. However, this segment is still in its infancy. As the global demand for RTD explodes, coffee cocktails have real potential to thrive within this expanding market.

Beyond RTD, Dunkin’ Donuts has already recognised the potential of coffee and alcohol. Last month, the US coffee and doughnut company released its “Spiked” range of hard coffees. Such a commitment by a major brand to the coffee and alcohol segment is a sign that this may really just be the start.

It could also indicate something else. Dunkin’ is a leader in providing convenience in the coffee industry. Out of its traditional locations, 59% operate a drive thru, and those units have 23% higher sales volume than other traditional locations.

What Dunkin’s Spiked Coffees show is that convenience will be a major driving force within the coffee and alcohol segment – something that’s reinforced by the growing popularity of RTD coffee cocktails.

This may be at odds with the traditional idea of how hard coffee is consumed – for example, being savoured at a bar. However, convenience shows no signs of slowing down, and is indiscriminately shaping all segments within the coffee industry.

As such, while evening coffee is an example of the industry breaking free of its conventions, it is likely that it will still be governed by the same factors as in the daytime. As more brands begin to offer their own version of hard coffee, or however they choose to respond to the growing demand for evening coffee, the trick will be in the interplay between providing an exciting, high-quality product and delivering it to the market in a convenient way.

Every two years, the world’s largest B2B hospitality trade show takes place in Milan. HostMilano 2023 was held at the Fiera Milano exhibition and trade centre from 13 to 17 October, with thousands of people attending from over 50 countries.

HostMilano is open to brands and companies across the food and beverage sector, including coffee, tea, chocolate and cacao, bars and restaurants, bakeries and patisseries, pizza, pasta, gelato, vending machines, and food service equipment.

Over 2,000 companies exhibited at the 43rd edition of the event, showcasing the latest innovations in technology and product development in the global coffee and HoReCa industries.

As well as this, HostMilano 2023 was host to several coffee competitions and awards ceremonies.

Coffee competitions & awards at HostMilano

World Latte Art Grading System Championship 2023

This year’s World Latte Art Grading System Championship took place on 16 October. This competition has been held in over 50 countries, assessing baristas’ technical latte art skills, as well as their creativity and flair. 

Although any coffee professional can apply to participate in the World Latte Art Grading System Championship, competitors must know how to extract espresso, steam milk, and pour latte art.

Competitors from Slovenia, Puerto Rico, Chile, Peru, Spain, Colombia, Vietnam, Thailand, and Italy battled it out for over six levels: White, Orange, Green, Red, Black, and Gold. Each one corresponds to specific skills baristas must demonstrate to receive an award.

Michele Zhonghua Hu, who won the Italian National Latte Art Grading System Championship the day before, was awarded the gold-level jug. Jorge Figueroa from Puerto Rico took home the black jug, Italy’s Salvatore Riunno was awarded the red jug, and Matias Felipe Faundez Faundz from Chile won the green jug.

Milano Latte Art Challenge 2023

The fourth edition of the Milano Latte Art Challenge took place from 14 to 16 October. Twelve competitors battled it out over nine rounds that varied in difficulty – from pouring simple latte art patterns to more complex designs.

After three days of fierce competition, previous Latte Art World Champion Manuela Fensore took home first place.

Other competitions

The Italian Espresso Institute hosted this year’s Espresso Italiano Champion contest between 13 and 17 October. International coffee professionals delivered a presentation while preparing espressos and cappuccinos for a panel of sensory and technical judges.

The 2023 Gran Premio Delle Caffetteria Italiana competition took place on 14 October. Competitors had 13 minutes to prepare two cappuccinos, two espressos, and two cold coffee drinks containing traditional Italian ingredients. Eight baristas made it through to the finals to compete for the title of 2023 Best Italian Maestro del Caffé.

The second Moka Challenge was held on 17 October. Unlike the other competitions, this was open to anyone interested in taking part. Participants were given ten minutes to brew and serve coffee in a three-cup moka pot – with finalists competing for the title of best brewer of the traditional Italian coffee pot.

Smart Label Host Innovation Award 2023

As well as competitions, HostMilano 2023 included several awards schemes – such as the Smart Label Host Innovation Awards.

The awards scheme recognises excellence in product innovation in the HoReCa sectors, including coffee. The categories were functionality, technology, product performance, and social and environmental sustainability.

Smart Label Host Innovation Award 2023 winners include:

• Latte Art Factory Bar Pro
• Pietro grinder
• Wacaco Company’s Minipresso NS2
• Franke Mytico
• Simonelli’s Eagle Tempo

Who exhibited at HostMilano 2023?

More than 2,000 exhibitors attended this year’s HostMilano from over 50 countries such as Italy, Germany, Spain, France, the US, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Portugal, Turkey, and China. This included some of the coffee industry’s most innovative equipment manufacturers and distributors.

A more powerful superautomatic coffee machine

Pioneering superautomatic coffee machine manufacturer, Carimali, was also exhibiting this year. Roberto Gregis, the marketing manager at Carimali, spoke to Perfect Daily Grind ahead of the event.

“Designing a booth with interactive experiences to showcase the latest trends in the coffee industry was quite challenging,” he said. “However, it’s allowed us to explore and understand shifting market needs on a much deeper level, as well as Carimali’s current role in the market and its future prospects. 

“We look forward to welcoming visitors to our booth, where they will experience unrivalled super-automatic coffee machine technology,” he adds.

Carimali exhibited its CARItower coffee machine, capable of preparing a variety of customised drinks. Increasingly, coffee is becoming just one component of a beverage (that may also include milk, cocoa, and syrups, for example). As such, the ability to serve highly personalised drinks catering to diverse consumer preferences is a significant advantage.

Carimali also showcased its new SilverAce Power coffee machine, specifically designed for high-volume locations which serve up to 400 drinks per day. Integrated into this is the brand’s CARIcream milk system, capable of producing high-quality hot and cold milk foam, as well as preparing up to five drinks simultaneously. 

Induction heating

Newer to the scene, Heylo’s espresso and milk modules were also on display. Having started to roll out at the beginning of this year, many of the attendees were eager to visit this booth.

Heylo uses an induction heating system – which works by passing an electrical current through an induction coil. This process generates an electromagnetic field that heats any conductive material it encounters.

In contrast to conventional boiler systems, this approach allows far greater precision and control over brew parameters like water temperature, pressure and flow, giving baristas the ability to set profiles that perfectly suit any espresso recipe.

In addition, attendees were queuing up to see how Heylo’s modular system worked. In the face of rising costs, being able to add and take away a module is a way to downsize and scale in a more flexible way. In such a volatile market, this approach had clear appeal for many of the companies in attendance.

Technology and design

For the first time, Elektra’s brand-new coffee machine was on display. Elektra is known for producing high-end vintage espresso machines. However, the brand has infused this with a modern approach, combining new technology with design to bring the Elektra Evok.

The machine’s colourful LED lighting was enough to draw in the crowds, and its impressive functionality was enough to make them stick around. On top of their more classic espresso machines, the Evok helped to generate a buzzing stand throughout the entire event.

Ultimately, HostMilano 2023 offered something for everyone. The competitions were varied and brought forward the industry’s best. Meanwhile, the exhibiting brands presented a range of exciting innovations that lay a pathway for the future of the coffee sector.

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In Italy, the cappuccino is a thing of iconic status.

It goes beyond a source of caffeine; it represents a tranquil moment to savour before the day begins. Coffee shops in Italy are also social hubs. The act of grabbing a cappuccino often means catching up with friends, discussing the latest news, or simply watching life go by.

As such, the cappuccino is often emblematic of the Italian pace of life – unhurried and enjoyed. In an era of instant gratification, it stands as a symbol of taking time to enjoy life’s simple pleasures.

Furthermore, just like pizza and pasta, the cappuccino is seen as a testament to Italian culinary prowess. Its global popularity is a source of pride as it showcases the country’s influence on international food culture.

Indeed, its popularity has earned its place as a staple on the specialty coffee menu – at least, a version of it.

The Instituto Nazionale Espresso Italiano (or the Italian Espresso National Institute) says, “A high-quality cappuccino that abides by tradition is made of 25ml espresso and 100ml steam-foamed milk”. However, specialty coffee’s definition has been more challenging to pin down.

Specialty coffee’s cappuccino

On both sides of the counter, there is a lot of confusion about the size of a cappuccino. Some, however, have a very clear idea.

“A traditional cappuccino is always going to be 6oz – period,” says Shawn Nickerson, owner of Café Cesura. “If a customer orders a 16oz cappuccino, I’ll give them a foamy latte. Otherwise, the drink would need six shots for the correct ratio.”

Meanwhile, Dhan Tamang, five-time UK National Latte Art Champion, defines a cappuccino as “an espresso-based beverage, made with a double shot espresso and topped with steamed/textured milk served in 5oz to 6oz cups”.

Milk texture is a defining feature of a cappuccino. In Italy, steamed milk is usually added so that a dome settles on top. Sometimes, milk is added first, and foam is scooped on top, as creating a perfect dome can be challenging. In both cases, a significant portion of the drink is the milk foam on top.

However, a specialty coffee cappuccino looks very different. The cappuccino presents another opportunity to draw latte art – which has become a priority in specialty coffee. As a result, the level of milk foam is much thinner and wetter. In many cases, this means that the cappuccino has become indistinguishable from other milk-based beverages, such as a flat white or latte.

“I think when we say a traditional cappuccino, not everyone in the room may be picturing the same drink,” says Shawn. “I think there is a renewed interest in smaller drinks, and I think folks order cappuccinos because they don’t know what else to order.”

In other words, customers may be struggling to understand what exactly a cappuccino is. Given how iconic a drink it is, it could be argued that specialty coffee has deviated away from what made the drink so recognisable and culturally significant.

The “new” traditional cappuccino

The audience for specialty coffee is expanding. Increasingly, customers are demanding more than the light, delicate flavours the sector was previously associated with. Instead, they are seeking the rich, indulgent experience that the traditional cappuccino represents.

Yet, achieving the level of foam required for an Italian-style cappuccino while maintaining the milk texture expected in specialty coffee has proven challenging.

However, new milk-frothing technology has addressed this issue. For example, Heylo’s milk module is able to deliver a wide range of froth levels, giving baristas the creamy, frothy milk associated with the traditional cappuccino.

Furthermore, unlike using a steam wand, its induction heating method froths milk without injecting steam into the liquid. This means the milk is not diluted with water and results in an even creamier texture.

As such, new milk-frothing technology has provided an opportunity to bring back the traditional cappuccino while meeting the standards of specialty coffee – merging the new with the old.

What’s next is for the specialty coffee community to decide whether to honour its heritage, or to forge ahead with its own definitions and ways of making coffee.

Specialty coffee culture in Europe has long been associated with Scandinavian and certain Western European countries. Now, another country can be added to the list.

Spain has had a tumultuous history with coffee. Many coffee markets experienced increases in consumption in the early 20th century, driven by mass production, increased international trade, and a growing middle class across European countries.

However, the Spanish Civil War impacted coffee imports, and consumption remained low. As a solution, many smuggled coffee into the country and adopted new methods of preserving it for longer.

For instance, sugar was added during the final stages of roasting, coating the beans and slowing down oxidation. This process – known as torrefacto – continues to be used across Spain today.

However, many roasters have moved on, and have created a scene for specialty coffee culture to develop.

Pioneers of specialty coffee culture

Being in such proximity to major coffee-consuming countries such as Italy and France, Spanish coffee culture has often been overlooked. However, this has allowed Spain to carve out its own path in the coffee industry.

It is estimated that the Spanish coffee market will grow by almost 6% annually over the coming five years. This is driven by increased out-of-home consumption and the increasingly prominent role of coffee in the workplace. Furthermore, a vibrant specialty coffee culture has emerged in recent years.

Eduard ‘Edu’ Morella Anglada is the Barista Trainer at Syra Coffee, Barcelona. He believes that the rapid development of specialty coffee culture in Spain rose due to the efforts of key figures in the industry, including Miguel Lamora Bárcena of atmans coffee and barista champion Kim Ossenblok. 

“Thanks to the great work of the pioneers of 15 years ago, we are improving day by day,” he says. “Coffee projects are becoming more and more professional, baristas have better skills and there is more and more information and training available to grow professionally.”

These advocates have inspired a number of Spanish coffee shops and roasters, establishing a specialty coffee culture. “People value coffee more and more, and they don’t think of it as a drink that you just consume –  curiosity is growing and so is the need to offer something different,” Edu says. 

“In the case of Syra Coffee, many baristas and people interested in specialty coffee are being trained, thus creating healthy competition within the sector. The more people are involved in the sector, the more it can develop and create a strong community on a national level.” 

Unlike other European countries that embraced specialty coffee culture in the early 2000s, Spain embraced it more recently. Renowned roasters such as Nomad Coffee, Toma Cafe and Hola Coffee were founded in the mid-to-late 2010s, with many more established in the years since. 

“Nowadays, it is very easy to find a specialty coffee shop in practically any city in Spain,” Edu says. “Obviously, it is easier in the major cities, but you could say that you can drink good coffee anywhere.”

Mediterranean culture

European countries have traditionally valued coffee breaks, such as the Swedish “Fika” and the German “Kaffee und Kuchen”. In Spain, Mediterranean traditions such as lengthy siestas have historically provided a large window for increased coffee sales. However, Edu suggests that consumer habits are changing.

“There may be those coffee breaks, but life has gotten hectic – there is much more movement than years ago,” he says, “That makes us value those little pleasures more and more, those little moments to taste a coffee, those talks with the baristas, preparing your coffee at home, and so on.”

This may be so, but it could also be seen as specialty coffee culture in Spain beginning to reflect that of the wider industry – where convenience is becoming increasingly important.

The role of sustainability

As specialty coffee culture has grown in Spain, sustainability has played a central role in shaping the movement – whether by law or from within the industry.

In 2022, a royal decree set targets for all packaging in Spain to be recyclable or reusable by 2030. This has had a major impact. For instance, Nestlé Spain has already changed 96% of its packaging to meet this requirement.

Beyond legal requirements, Edu sees customers as a major force driving change in the specialty coffee sector, prioritising sustainability in their purchasing decisions.

“People are becoming more and more involved in recycling, sustainability and everything that can affect climate change,” he says. 

“We could say that it all started with the awareness of bringing your own takeaway cup, but nowadays there is not only that, but also an increasing search for compostable materials for everyday use in cafés, such as lids, coffee bags, and so on.”

A push for sustainability is not just coming from customers, though. Edu describes a project at Syra launched in collaboration with a local farmer to reuse over 6 tonnes of coffee grounds and chaff – two of the main waste products in the consumption end of the supply chain.

“This waste, when composted, generates benefits for the crop by creating more fertile soil rich in beneficial microorganisms,” he says. “Chaff is also used to improve the feed of your farm animals, supplementing nutrients in their regular diet.”

As such, Spain’s relatively recent entry into specialty coffee could be a good thing, as businesses can adopt sustainable practices from the outset. On a broader scale, it means that the country has the opportunity to establish a unique coffee culture, and carve out its own space within the global industry.