In recent years, advancements in automation, measurement tools and brewing equipment have not only enabled better workflow but also a more thorough understanding of coffee’s behaviour when we brew it.

Some quality assessment methods based around cupping have allowed actors across the industry to attribute a numerical score to coffee. However, these protocols often rely on years of practice and proper taste calibration, which can be variable, time-consuming and subject to unconscious biases. 

In 2008, technology company Voice Systems Technology (VST) Inc. began releasing products targeted at the coffee industry. Among these was the LAB Coffee Refractometer, a device that enables the user to measure the extraction and total dissolved solids (TDS) of liquid coffee – providing a more scientific approach. 

They work by measuring the deflection of light as it passes through an object. By observing how light refracts as it touches the coffee, a refractometer provides a TDS measurement, which can be used to establish the percentage extraction yield, or the percentage of extracted material within the total brew liquid.

This can give a barista quick and precise insight into their extraction, and generally allows a deeper understanding of what occurs during the brew process.

Prior to recent rule changes, refractometers measured the TDS of each coffee and ensured consistency at the World Brewers Cup Championships.

Given their usefulness in elevating quality and improving consistency, it would make sense for refractometers to be a common tool used in coffee shops. So why is this not the case?

Refractometers’ place in coffee shops

Over the years, an increasing number of tools have found their way onto coffee bars across the specialty sector. Distribution tools and automatic tampers help to improve extraction and consistency, for example. However, despite their shared purpose, coffee refractometers are nowhere to be seen.

“It can be that using the refractometer can slow down the workflow, especially in busy shops,” says Izabela Fortini, international sales manager at The Barn. “In my experience, it is mostly used only during the development of a new recipe, and for the quality control of these recipes, but not usually when the shop is busy.”

Using coffee refractometers is relatively straightforward, but it does require training. The protocol to ensure accurate measurements, as well as proper refractometer maintenance, may make it impractical for some coffee shops without the necessary time and resources for such training. Despite this barrier, Izabela believes the investment in staff training is worth it.

“Investing in good personal and on-site training is the key to a successful coffee shop, and in my experience the more the baristas learn, the more they fall in love with the product,” she says. “And this always makes them care for the quality.”

While not ubiquitous across the sector, certain specialty coffee shops have made this investment. However, with the growing presence of autonomous technology, we may begin to see fewer and fewer refractometers.

A recent report estimates that automation in the coffee industry will be worth over £3 billion in the next three years. This indicates a growing preference for a more efficient workflow and a systematic approach to quality – in contrast to the manual approach a refractometer represents. 

Is it not more about taste?

Many would argue that the numbers provided by a refractometer are less important than the actual taste of the coffee.

Furthermore, as specialty coffee expands into new audiences and attempts to shed its “elitist” reputation, it could be considered misguided for refractometers and TDS measurements to dictate what “quality” is, rather than the preferences of consumers.

For many, however, it’s not one or the other. On the contrary, refractometers can be a useful tool in reaffirming quality and taste assessments, or to help train new baristas.

“I think that for quality control and for learning this tool is essential,” says Izabela. “Nevertheless, learning how to taste and being able to understand extraction is something that all good baristas need to know how to do.”

“I believe that taste is always more important, when you have a good barista they will use it as a tool to help. When the barista is not so experienced they will use it as a tool to learn, making the refractometer a very important tool to have in a quality coffee shop.”

As such, the usefulness of refractometers in coffee shops depends on what they are used for, and how they are integrated into training, service, and quality assessment.

“Using refractometers when you are dialling in your espresso in the morning is very important, and of course during the training of new baristas and new coffee recipes,” Izabela says.  

“I believe that the refractometer can help with quality control and consistency of the recipes on a day-to-day basis. In the long term, it helps with optimisation of recipes, and helps new baristas to understand extraction and how to taste the coffee.” 

Ultimately, the best approach will vary from one coffee shop to another – depending on their unique needs, and their capacity to incorporate the tool into their operations.

“I think the refractometer is important and will continue to be very important in the future,” Izabela says. “Even with new equipment, we will always need the baristas to know how to taste and this tool is excellent to help us learn and keep us calibrated.” 

This article is the second in a series exploring the prevailing attitude towards mistakes in the specialty coffee sector. The series is being produced in collaboration with Heylo Coffee, who are eager to kickstart a conversation around “mistakes” – beginning on a road to normalising them.

In the specialty coffee sector, there is a culture of meticulousness and striving for excellence. In some instances, this can lead to an air of perfectionism, where mistakes are looked down upon. This can put undue pressure on many actors across the industry, creating unnecessary stress.

Heylo is seeking to reverse this narrative: Mistakes do happen; and embracing them could foster a more open, healthy, and constructive environment.

This collaborative series will look at common mistakes made by baristas, coffee roasters, and coffee shop owners – not in an effort to expose people working in those roles; but to embrace failure as part of the process, and as part of life.

Mistakes made by specialty coffee roasters

Starting and operating a business can be a daunting prospect – and it’s no surprise that there are innumerable obstacles and challenges lying in wait, ready to trip you up.

Beyond the more general difficulties associated with running a business, specialty coffee roasters must face the added complexity of variations between coffee harvests and a particularly volatile commodity price which – while many will be trading above this – invariably affects the entire industry.

With these continuously shifting parameters, managing the finances of a specialty coffee roaster could be considered a constant uphill battle. 

This can be made worse when a new business has spent ambitiously at the outset – for example, spending too much money on expensive coffee and equipment.

“Always start small with your equipment – not only are smaller roasting machines going to be a smaller initial investment, but if you are still learning how to roast or developing your roast style, then a lower capacity roaster will mean that you end up roasting more batches,” says Danny Wilson, head roaster at Ona Coffee.

“Roasting more small batches gives you more opportunity to practise your skills, lower costs if you make a mistake and if you blend many small batches together into an overall more consistent product.”

Roasting in small batches is certainly a good strategy for those just starting out. However, coffee is a difficult product to work with in more ways than one.

Many roasters also have difficulty managing their stock levels. Although there are programs designed to assist roasters with such tasks, Danny believes each business should create a system suitable for their specific needs – especially when buying multiple lots and coffee origins.  

“It’s important to understand that naming conventions like farm, process and producer will always need to adapt depending on the coffees you buy,” he says. “Different origins will follow different naming conventions and the more coffees you buy the more complicated this becomes, especially if you start buying multiple similar but distinct lots from the same producer.”

“Finally you should have a good understanding of how weight-loss of different roasting styles, samples taken for QC, and general wastage affects how much green coffee turns into finished bags on the shelf.”

Indeed, an average of 16% of the weight of coffee is lost during the roasting process. Beyond recognising this and properly accounting for it, specialty coffee roasters need a level of technical prowess to effectively manage this loss.

No strangers to the grind

Understanding how different coffee origins, varieties and processing methods will behave during the process takes years to master, and there are numerous shifting variables.

Yet, there is an expectation that each bag of specialty coffee will be as perfect as the last. However, coffee is a natural product – it is not uniform, it changes over time, and there are innumerable external factors that affect it; it seems, therefore, as though specialty coffee roasters do something similar to turning lemons into lemonade.

“Every day there are so many different variables you are always trying to keep track of – from environmental factors like temperature and humidity, different roasting approaches and different requirements from coffees – that the last thing you need is to introduce more chaos with poor organisation and planning,” says Danny.

“As a roaster, you should build consistency and routine into everything you do from warm-up procedures, roast tracking and maintenance as all can have a significant impact on cup quality.”

Implementing these protocols can also help to minimise wastage and improve the efficiency of your roastery. In Australia alone, the coffee sector generates over 65,000 tonnes of waste annually. Additionally, these protocols serve as a valuable resource to fall back on when the roastery team begins to get tired.

Specialty coffee roasters are no strangers to the grind – both literally and figuratively. The hours can be long, and the work physically demanding. This can create a situation where mistakes are more likely, such as inadequate between-batch protocols, under or overloading roast batches, or baking and scorching the beans.

In the moment, these mistakes can feel like the end of the world; particularly when you are dealing with specialty coffee – where each lot represents the hard work and dedication of farmers.

And while roasters should certainly treat their coffees with care and respect, being scared to make mistakes is counterproductive – it’s how you learn, it’s how you progress, and it’s all part of the process.

Don’t be afraid to make mistakes

Having navigated the roasting process where there may have already been a number of close encounters with mistakes, much of the danger actually lies after the roast is finished. How specialty coffee roasters market and share their products is crucial – now more than ever.

Finding the right avenues to sell coffee is becoming vital in today’s digital world, especially given the prevalence of social media and ecommerce in the sales landscape. Choosing which platforms to use can be difficult and can feel like an overwhelming decision.

“Most roasting businesses, especially when starting out, rely on returning or repeat customers,” Danny says. “These may be wholesale customers such as cafes or through retail sales to home baristas. Whichever platform you decide to work with should facilitate not only reaching new customers, but make return business as simple as possible.”

As a part of this, specialty coffee roasters must understand their customer base if they hope to engage them – online and off. Without this, they essentially don’t know who they are selling their coffee to, or what this mystery group enjoys.

“The modern specialty coffee market is flooded with a plethora of wildly different processing styles and flavour profiles,” Danny says.

“Understanding where your customers’ preferences and limits are with these flavours is crucial. Spending big on an experimental lot that is a little too extreme for your customers’ tastes is the easiest way to blow a huge hole in your green coffee budget.” 

As such, while this may not be the most glamorous task of being a specialty coffee roaster, conducting thorough market research will help ensure your product lands with the right audience.

This shouldn’t deter anyone from producing exotic coffees. If that’s your passion, find a way to do it.

“Start safe, build trust and familiarity with your customers and your coffee offering, then you can test out more exotic options in small batches using special releases or promotions.”

As with many things, the advice is: start with the basics, and don’t be afraid to make mistakes along the way.

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In the early days, specialty coffee was closely associated with light roasted coffee; so much so that it became deeply ingrained in its ethos. Today, many in the industry are turning away from light roasts. Does this say something about the direction specialty coffee is headed?

In some ways, specialty coffee favoured light roasted coffee as a response to the dominant presence of dark roasts across the industry. It offered a way for brands to differentiate themselves from large, commercial coffee companies that adopted traditional roasting styles.

Leading the charge, roasters from Norway and Scandinavian countries drove the popularity of light roasted coffee. “Nordic-style” roasting started to gather momentum in the early 2000s, with Scandinavian baristas winning six of the first seven World Barista Championships.

Beyond the competition stage, influential Nordic roasters like Tim Wendelboe and Solberg & Hansen inspired the broader sector to roast lighter and celebrate the natural attributes of single origin coffees.

Indeed, this was the primary selling point of light roasted coffee. With less development time in the roasting process, the “varietal character” of the coffee is left intact. Unaffected by “roasty” flavours, specialty coffee’s light roasts tell the customer as much about the journey from farm to cup as possible.

Today, however, specialty coffee has grown in popularity to the point where it must appeal to a larger, wider audience. In this effort, brands are taking a broader approach to roasting.

Medium roasts for a broader audience

While light roasts have been celebrated within specialty coffee circles, they aren’t without criticism – often perceived as “sour” or “hay-like”.

In some ways, the rising popularity of medium roasts is a response to this. They act as a point of access for newcomers to specialty coffee – helping to bridge the gap between light roasts and what the sector’s growing audience has been previously familiar with.

At the same time, brands have started to shift away from designating their coffees to a particular roast level. Historically, light roasts have been associated with brewing filter coffee, while more developed roasts have been used for espresso.

And although coffee shops and consumers have embraced this characterisation, the increasing popularity of medium roasts and “omni roasts” – which are developed for all brewing styles – is seeing a diminishing focus on roast level to define coffee, and more emphasis on other features, such as flavour notes and processing. 

“There is definitely a lot of medium coffee out there, but I think more what has happened is the centre of what specialty coffee is has moved away from talking about things like roast levels,” says Josh Tarlo, founder of Headstand and former UK Barista Champion.

“I don’t think that light roasts have become less of a part of specialty – it’s more that the advertising around it is diminishing,” Josh says. 

While this may be the case, a broader push towards medium roasts has widened the scope of specialty coffee. Now, more balanced and traditionally “coffee-like” flavours exist to draw in new customers – customers that, before, may have been alienated by light roasts.

Is light roasted coffee old news?

In general, medium roasts cater more to what customers new to specialty coffee expect, or are familiar with. This also extends to the way in which consumers drink their coffee.

Historically, light roasted coffee was closely associated with pour overs, and a “no milk, no sugar” approach. However, a 2021 survey found over 70% of UK coffee consumers regularly drank their coffee with milk. As an increasing number of “regular” coffee consumers make the switch to specialty coffee, this is a figure the sector will have to take more seriously.

And as specialty coffee strives to capture a larger audience, milk-based drinks play a central role in that effort. For these drinks, medium roasts are often preferable because the flavours better complement milk; whereas the delicate flavours of light roasted coffee can be lost.

On top of this, light roasted coffee is often viewed as harder to work with. Given their higher bean density, brewing light roasts often requires a finer grind size. In some cases, this can cause extraction issues, such as channelling when brewing for espresso, which can lead to sour cup profiles.

In contrast, medium roasts are considered easier to work with and extract a balanced flavour profile from. In this sense, if coffee shops choose to turn away from using light roasts, this may be driven by pragmatism.

However, some believe light roasted coffee shouldn’t be painted with such broad brushstrokes. Furthermore, the familiarity that many consumers have with bitter flavours may make them more accepting and receptive to a poorly executed dark roast, but light roasts don’t benefit from the same level of lenience. 

“I don’t think light roasts are harder to work with, I just think that badly made light roasts do not complement milk that well and we are less used to those flavours,” says Josh. “Poorly brewed dark roast is not particularly nice, but dark sugar and slightly bitter flavours are very familiar to us, so it doesn’t get thought of in the same way.”

Despite having the odds against them, light roasted coffee has played a central role in the growth of specialty coffee. As such, consumers could be more attuned to them than originally thought.

“I think that the massive growth of specialty coffee during a period of using lighter roast shows that their reception has generally been positive,” Josh says.

Ultimately, while medium roasts are becoming more prevalent in the specialty coffee industry, it is a stretch to say they are replacing light roasts. Rather than pitting the two against each other, this shift can be seen as another step towards the growing appeal of specialty coffee – and a broadening of its horizons.

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For many years, specialty coffee charted its own course – not indifferent to the preferences of its consumers, but sure of its path. However, a certain demographic is emerging that’s becoming increasingly difficult to ignore.

Gen Z and young millennials have a purchasing power valued at over $360 billion globally. Looking at recent changes in the specialty coffee sector, it is clear to see that many businesses are responding to this.

Of course, the impact of young coffee consumers on the industry varies across different markets. For instance, the younger generation’s preference for convenience is driving substantial changes within the industry, but the nature of these changes differs from region to region.

On a broad scale, coffee brands are responding with more automation, more online retail experiences, and more RTD and takeaway-friendly options. However, the online coffee retail landscape looks very different in China than in the UK, for example. Likewise, the RTD coffee market is growing at a faster rate at over 8% in the US, compared to under 5% in the UK.

Nevertheless, the overarching growth in these areas indicates a broad shift toward convenience within specialty coffee, largely driven by younger consumers.

Despite this, quality remains a key motivator. Surveys conducted in the UK reported that up to 33% of consumers in Gen Z aged 25 and under will “never drink instant coffee again”, preferring higher quality, specialty coffee.

However, younger consumers are a demanding demographic – their needs go beyond quality and convenience. As such, the specialty coffee sector has its work cut out in catering to varied and often-evolving preferences.

Young coffee consumers want choice

Younger consumers are increasingly challenging specialty coffee businesses to offer a variety of menu options.

Throughout his years working in the specialty coffee industry, Alexander Ntatsos of BARISTA Academy Stockholm has noticed differences in purchasing behaviour between generations.

“It is true – the older the consumer, the less choice they need,” he says. “For instance, in Sweden, older people tend to purchase just black coffee and cinnamon buns and probably not every day, but once a week.”

“[This is] in comparison to a teenager, who will visit a coffee shop more than three days a week and purchase higher value beverages such as iced latte, espresso tonic, cold drinks together with a sandwich or pastry.”

The demand for choice among young consumers has driven significant growth in non-traditional coffee segments. For example, coffee shops are now increasingly expected to offer a variety of plant milks, and the flavoured coffee market is projected to grow by at least 4% in the next five years as brands attempt to target young people.

At the same time, a push for more choice has prompted coffee brands to expand their menus across different origins and processing methods in an attempt to capture the attention of young coffee consumers.

Ultimately, a filter coffee and a bun may have been acceptable for specialty coffee consumers 10 years ago. Today, however, young people need a range of options to become and remain interested.

Brand promiscuity and sustainability

In comparison to older demographics, younger coffee drinkers place less importance on the traditional coffee shop experience, and are more open to exploring new brands. While this has led some to claim that brand loyalty in the coffee industry is diminishing, others believe it fuels healthy competition.

“It is hard to find loyalty in young coffee consumers, which is normal as they want to experience and explore new tastes and trends,” Alexander says. 

“I don’t think this is necessarily bad for the coffee industry. In this way, nothing’s taken for granted and the professionals need to be updated and able to offer new things. The need to be competitive will lead to better products and better quality of service.” 

As young coffee consumers continue to shop around, they have moved away from the once-prevailing notion that people “stick it out” with a brand because it aligns with their values. Instead, they seek out a number of brands that all share a set of values – such as a focus on sustainability.

However, as young coffee consumers increasingly have a presence on social media, their alignment with certain values may sometimes be more about projecting a particular image or lifestyle, rather than genuinely supporting a product or brand.

Recent research published in the British Food Journal found that, for Gen Z consumers, ethical or sustainable consumption contributes to their “self-branding, identity claims and social currency”.

As young coffee consumers prioritise values that align with their desired lifestyle, this could have a lasting influence on the specialty coffee industry – which must continuously adapt to stay relevant and on-trend.

Of course, not all young coffee consumers fit that description. However, what is evident is that brands are increasingly having to offer convenient, digital ordering solutions, provide a range of choices, and constantly keep on top of trends. The jury’s out on whether this signifies specialty coffee losing its sense of identity, or morphing into something new and more relevant.

Specialty coffee culture in Europe has long been associated with Scandinavian and certain Western European countries. Now, another country can be added to the list.

Spain has had a tumultuous history with coffee. Many coffee markets experienced increases in consumption in the early 20th century, driven by mass production, increased international trade, and a growing middle class across European countries.

However, the Spanish Civil War impacted coffee imports, and consumption remained low. As a solution, many smuggled coffee into the country and adopted new methods of preserving it for longer.

For instance, sugar was added during the final stages of roasting, coating the beans and slowing down oxidation. This process – known as torrefacto – continues to be used across Spain today.

However, many roasters have moved on, and have created a scene for specialty coffee culture to develop.

Pioneers of specialty coffee culture

Being in such proximity to major coffee-consuming countries such as Italy and France, Spanish coffee culture has often been overlooked. However, this has allowed Spain to carve out its own path in the coffee industry.

It is estimated that the Spanish coffee market will grow by almost 6% annually over the coming five years. This is driven by increased out-of-home consumption and the increasingly prominent role of coffee in the workplace. Furthermore, a vibrant specialty coffee culture has emerged in recent years.

Eduard ‘Edu’ Morella Anglada is the Barista Trainer at Syra Coffee, Barcelona. He believes that the rapid development of specialty coffee culture in Spain rose due to the efforts of key figures in the industry, including Miguel Lamora Bárcena of atmans coffee and barista champion Kim Ossenblok. 

“Thanks to the great work of the pioneers of 15 years ago, we are improving day by day,” he says. “Coffee projects are becoming more and more professional, baristas have better skills and there is more and more information and training available to grow professionally.”

These advocates have inspired a number of Spanish coffee shops and roasters, establishing a specialty coffee culture. “People value coffee more and more, and they don’t think of it as a drink that you just consume –  curiosity is growing and so is the need to offer something different,” Edu says. 

“In the case of Syra Coffee, many baristas and people interested in specialty coffee are being trained, thus creating healthy competition within the sector. The more people are involved in the sector, the more it can develop and create a strong community on a national level.” 

Unlike other European countries that embraced specialty coffee culture in the early 2000s, Spain embraced it more recently. Renowned roasters such as Nomad Coffee, Toma Cafe and Hola Coffee were founded in the mid-to-late 2010s, with many more established in the years since. 

“Nowadays, it is very easy to find a specialty coffee shop in practically any city in Spain,” Edu says. “Obviously, it is easier in the major cities, but you could say that you can drink good coffee anywhere.”

Mediterranean culture

European countries have traditionally valued coffee breaks, such as the Swedish “Fika” and the German “Kaffee und Kuchen”. In Spain, Mediterranean traditions such as lengthy siestas have historically provided a large window for increased coffee sales. However, Edu suggests that consumer habits are changing.

“There may be those coffee breaks, but life has gotten hectic – there is much more movement than years ago,” he says, “That makes us value those little pleasures more and more, those little moments to taste a coffee, those talks with the baristas, preparing your coffee at home, and so on.”

This may be so, but it could also be seen as specialty coffee culture in Spain beginning to reflect that of the wider industry – where convenience is becoming increasingly important.

The role of sustainability

As specialty coffee culture has grown in Spain, sustainability has played a central role in shaping the movement – whether by law or from within the industry.

In 2022, a royal decree set targets for all packaging in Spain to be recyclable or reusable by 2030. This has had a major impact. For instance, Nestlé Spain has already changed 96% of its packaging to meet this requirement.

Beyond legal requirements, Edu sees customers as a major force driving change in the specialty coffee sector, prioritising sustainability in their purchasing decisions.

“People are becoming more and more involved in recycling, sustainability and everything that can affect climate change,” he says. 

“We could say that it all started with the awareness of bringing your own takeaway cup, but nowadays there is not only that, but also an increasing search for compostable materials for everyday use in cafés, such as lids, coffee bags, and so on.”

A push for sustainability is not just coming from customers, though. Edu describes a project at Syra launched in collaboration with a local farmer to reuse over 6 tonnes of coffee grounds and chaff – two of the main waste products in the consumption end of the supply chain.

“This waste, when composted, generates benefits for the crop by creating more fertile soil rich in beneficial microorganisms,” he says. “Chaff is also used to improve the feed of your farm animals, supplementing nutrients in their regular diet.”

As such, Spain’s relatively recent entry into specialty coffee could be a good thing, as businesses can adopt sustainable practices from the outset. On a broader scale, it means that the country has the opportunity to establish a unique coffee culture, and carve out its own space within the global industry.

Over the course of two decades, specialty coffee has come a long way. As the US expects 17,500 new coffee shops to open by the end of 2025 – 26% more than currently exists – many are competing for visibility.

Many are having to go the extra mile to make their coffee shop stand out. Tried and tested techniques to attract and retain customers may no longer be enough. For example, it is now standard practice for a coffee shop to offer a loyalty scheme, or to create engaging social media channels.

A more recent trend is the emergence of the ‘Instagrammable’ coffee shop. Brands are increasingly decorating their cafes with selfie-worthy features to harness the power of social media, allowing them to organically reach a wider audience on platforms like TikTok and Instagram.

However, this must be balanced with a tenet that has been central long before Instagram was invented: Creating an atmosphere. Whether the space has been created to be comfortable, fun and energetic, or something else, it will determine the kind of customers it attracts, and their likelihood to return. 

One way to create a particular atmosphere and make your coffee shop stand out is through music choice. Comfortable and ambient noise has not only been shown to improve mood and productivity, but can often influence how much customers spend.

Likewise, studies have shown that having amenable and chatty staff not only helps to create an atmosphere, but improves customer retention and profit.

Ultimately, to make a coffee shop stand out, you must think beyond a cup of coffee to how the experience makes your customers feel. While an excellent flat white can brighten your day, a positive experience can linger even longer in a customer’s memory.

Adding another dimension

Many coffee shop owners must decide whether they are going to offer a range of products, or focus solely on coffee.

“Serving just coffee isn’t an easy game, you are fighting against all of the other [businesses] having amazing brunch, breakfast, cakes, sweets, wifi, terraces and more,” says Tom Balerin, a multiple national barista champion and co-owner of Astère Coffee in Montpellier, France.

“So you definitely have to be on top of coffee quality, shown by the consistency, service, choices of the coffee beans, the menu, and to show that you are knowledgeable.”

Essentially, if a coffee shop exclusively serves coffee, it must establish authority and position itself as the ultimate destination in the area – something Tom decided to do with his brand.

“It’s a bit radical, yes, but I believe to change the habits of some customers and stand out, we need to show them that we just have coffee, but we know what we are doing and just focus on that,” he says. 

For other businesses, diversifying what they offer can make all the difference in attracting new customers and making their coffee shop stand out. This can be as simple as exploring food options.

Against conventional wisdom, offering a wide range of options and cuisines is often not the best approach to attracting new customers. Instead, choosing a specific product and specialising in it can make a coffee shop stand out. In this case, having a reputation for “coffee and Swedish buns”, for example, can make your brand recognisable.

Others go even further to make their coffee shop stand out, exploring experiences beyond food and beverages. For example, some cafés supply board games, hosting events and tournaments.

Some, especially those with multiple storeys, double as a space to host public events and shows, such as coffee events, book clubs, art workshops, and private events.

Ultimately, expanding what you offer not only diversifies your revenue streams, but also adds another dimension to what the brand can be recognised for – making your coffee shop stand out.

Branding, interior design, and equipment

For many, branding is the most important factor in making a coffee shop stand out – something big companies have an advantage in.

“You are competing with big roasteries and big budget cafes, who will work with the best designers, community management and brand creators, and more,” Tom says.

For smaller coffee shops, good branding is often underpinned by authenticity. “Astère’s design is pink, refined, sweet and delicate. When you look at my 190cm and 105-kilogram figure, you’d never assume that it reflects me,” he says, “But that’s why I love branding, it could help me share who I really am without judgement.”

Tom collaborated with a designer to create Astère’s branding, aiming to reflect his values and engage a diverse audience. However, he warns that too much personal connection to a brand comes with its risks.

“Coffee shops need to be careful, as when you are putting too much of yourself into your branding – if you really are your brand – it can also be difficult to grow, expand, reproduce and perhaps eventually, to let go.”

Interior design also plays a crucial role in making a coffee shop stand out. The contrast between between a light and airy space, or a low-lit and cosy space may make all the difference. As with ambience, it will guide the type of customers who walk through your door, and if they’re willing to stay for a second cup.

“For this first location, we decided to build a big bar that is clean, light and not overwhelmed with many things around – we did that in order to have people sharing coffee together, to have conversations and so on,” Tom says. 

“But, it’s true that this was a bit of a risk – we see many foreigners embracing the concept and loving it. The French indeed are less attracted by it, they prefer being outside not sharing much conversation with people they don’t know.”

In many cases, coffee equipment plays a central role in making a coffee shop stand out. Beyond ergonomics, and how everything is positioned to allow for positive customer interactions, the equipment itself can be pivotal.

For example, vintage espresso machines create a memorable centrepiece for customers to enjoy, and can make a coffee shop stand out. The Elektra Indie, for example, comes in “ice white” or “matt black”, and provides a striking focal point for any coffee shop. Having equipment like this encourages customers to feel they are about to receive a special cup of coffee.

“We still judge coffee shops on the first impression, so having nice-looking and renowned coffee equipment will always give you a boost,” Tom says. “Having good equipment will also help you in achieving quality and most importantly the consistency that you need in order to perform and grow.”

Ultimately, in an increasingly saturated market, the strategies that worked to stand out just a few years ago are becoming less effective. To thrive in this dynamic industry, coffee shops must remain reactive. At the same time, being authentic and giving your brand some personality is often considered crucial – after all, there’s only one you.

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Coffee and wine are often compared, with many drawing similarities between a shared emphasis on craftsmanship, expression of terroir, processing, varieties, and taste appreciation.

They are also both ritualistic beverages linked to people’s habits. This could be associated with the caffeine and alcohol content of each drink, and how our brains and bodies react to them. 

The “energy boosting” quality of caffeine and its association with improved productivity has led to its habitual consumption during the day. On the other hand, alcohol increases serotonin levels and other neurotransmitters in the brain, which can induce feelings of relaxation, sociability, and confidence. As such, people drink it to unwind, often in the evenings and paired alongside food. 

Coffee has a relatively short history compared to wine, which spans thousands of years. It could be argued that the wine industry has done a lot of the groundwork in sensory development and mapping that the coffee sector now benefits from.

The two industries share similarities when appreciating aroma, body, acidity and flavour. Both sectors recognise the influence of geography, variety and climatic conditions, and assess their products in similar ways. For instance, the first Coffee Tasting Flavour Wheel borrowed concepts from wine sensory analysis.

This extends to formal evaluation. Both the coffee and wine industries use assessment and scoring systems to determine market value, and to provide a quality assessment for buyers and consumers. 

When it comes to service, the increasing attention to detail seen in specialty coffee, such as serving temperature and what the beverage is served in, mirrors the wine industry – which has used specialised glassware for centuries to enhance consumer experiences.

Yet, while many focus on consumption and sensory assessment, it may be in production and farming that the two industries share the most common features.

Coffee and wine at farm level

Both coffee and wine rely on specific growing conditions, harvesting periods and fermentation. Moreover, in the last decade, innovative techniques used in coffee production have been inspired by the wine industry. This includes biodynamic farming and controlled fermentation methods in anaerobic or CO2-rich environments. 

“The similarities are, to my knowledge, in the fermentation processes,” says José De León Guzmán, owner of Kofra Coffee. “Carbonic maceration, for example, takes place during the fermentation process to produce fresh, fruit-forward, low-tannin red wines.

“In coffee, the cherries are placed in airtight containers and then pumped with CO2 that often produces fruity, bright, coffees with notes of red fruits.”

José believes that, as the specialty coffee sector grows, it could mirror the wine industry in other, positive ways.

“When it comes to modern coffee in the past five years, the similarities [to wine] are incredible, to the point that I think in the next five years we will refer to coffee producers with the same respect and admiration that we refer to winemakers in France,” says José.

“We can see that happening now as we increasingly see their names on coffee bags instead of the names of the farms.” coffee and wine are nice.

Given the similarities at farm level, it almost seems like one of the only things separating coffee and wine is the fruit at the beginning of the process. However, while some see a clear connection between the two industries, some believe these comparisons take too much of a broad perspective.

“We ferment a fruit and drink the juice in one, meanwhile we ferment a seed, throw away the juice and roast that seed on the other,” says Yanina Ferreyra of green bean sourcing and importing company, Project Origin, who also has a WSET wine certification. 

“I don’t think these two products are more similar than what wine could be to kombucha, and I think coffee shares more similarities with cacao, which is also another roasted seed. The similarities between coffee and wine are only due to both being fermented products.”

Natural wine and specialty coffee

This may be so, but the development of natural wines is leading some to draw fresh comparisons with the coffee sector.

Typically, winemaking includes the use of additives, as well as filtration techniques to clarify the wine and remove microorganisms. In contrast, natural winemaking uses simplified and traditional methods to showcase the wine’s purest expression.

Both natural wine and specialty coffee have developed as niche segments within wider industries. Fueled by their appeal among the younger millennial demographic, the consumption of natural and organic wines has more than doubled over the past decade.

At the same time, specialty coffee has found its primary audience in the same market, and consumption is expected to grow 13% annually until 2030.

Serving natural wines alongside coffee in his business, José believes both products are fundamentally about minimal intervention throughout the production and brewing process.

“When I think about specialty coffee and natural wines, I think of products that are ‘alive’ – that have a personality and characteristics that respond to the manner and respect we show to them,” he says.

“We give all the credit to producers, we talk about their processes and most importantly we try to make it the new normal.”

Just as coffee producers aim to reduce their environmental impact and improve biodiversity on their farms, natural winemakers are also striving to operate within a healthy ecosystem – using natural fertilisers and making use of byproducts in their production process.

In most cases, natural wine and specialty coffee adopt more sustainable production models compared to their larger, more commercial counterparts. This could make these sectors more popular in the future, and create more similarities between them.

Taking a look at the broader industries, however, there is one fundamental difference. Wine-growing regions are commonly located in wealthier countries. In contrast, over 40% of the world’s coffee producers live in poverty.

While this situation is the result of a complex history, Yanina believes that, in part, there are lessons from the wine industry that could be applied to the coffee sector.

“I think coffee craves the consistency that commercial wines have – and consistency means steady income,” says Yanina. “Conversely, variability and allowing the fermentation to happen ‘naturally’ is what coffee has been doing so far.

“What coffee needs to learn is that winemakers make the wines they can with the grapes they are given, and that is determined by the environmental variables of that year. I think coffee, in a very general way, ignores the environmental factors such as rainfall, and temperatures, and assumes coffee cherries are the same every year.”

The coffee sector undoubtedly has much to learn. Indeed, the wine industry enjoys relative stability in comparison. This may be a product of time; it may also be because the coffee supply chain is so complex.

As such, the narrowing of these industries could be seen as a good thing. On the other hand, the coffee industry is on its own path – and it’s one of constant transformation and innovation. While comparisons of the two beverages will likely continue, the question could actually be – can the more seasoned wine industry keep up?

New Ground Coffee

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The rise of cold brew has been meteoric – so much so that some businesses may have omitted to appreciate the additional food safety risks.

The cold brew market grew by more than 26% in 2021 and is projected to reach a value of over $1.3 billion before 2025. While food safety concerns related to cold brew aren’t new, the recent surge in its popularity has brought more attention to the issue. Many in the industry are now seeking clarification of food safety protocols related to producing, processing, and storing cold brew.

Across the supply chain, coffee is exposed to many microbial risks during processing and production. This ranges from fungal and bacterial contamination during harvesting and fermentation, to risks during transport and its preparation into a consumable product. Specific microbial contaminants include bacteria such as E. coli and Enterobacteriaceae (including Salmonella).

Roasting coffee greatly minimises the risk of contamination, and brewing with heat makes microbial concerns basically negligible. However, as there’s no heating process in the production of cold brew, special hygiene requirements are required to manage these risks.

“Cold brew production involves the use of water and coffee grounds over an extended period without heat treatment – this environment is conducive to the growth of various microorganisms, including bacteria, yeast, and moulds,” says Krzysztof Barabosz, head of coffee at Hard Beans.

“Contaminants can come from the coffee beans, equipment, and the production environment. Without proper controls, these microorganisms can proliferate and pose health risks to consumers.”

In 2017, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recalled a canned nitro cold brew because the manufacturer found that its processing could foster the growth of a toxin. This toxin can lead to illnesses that attack the body’s nerves and even be fatal. Such cases are rare, and luckily with this incident, no one reported a sickness from consuming the product.

With the demand for cold brew booming, the need for more rigorous food safety processes will not only ensure the safety of more customers, but could also safeguard the future of this emerging drink category.

Danger zone

One key factor that makes cold brew production vulnerable to microbial contamination is its acidity. Coffee is an acidic substance, with cold brew typically having a pH range of between 4.85 and 5.10. While this range is not conducive to the growth of many harmful bacteria, Krzysztof explains that microbial growth can multiply during brewing and storage – especially if the equipment isn’t adequately sanitised.

“The potential for microbial growth is compounded by the nature of the cold brew extraction process,” he says. “Because cold brew coffee is made using cold water and steeped for an extended time, there’s a possibility that microorganisms present on the coffee grounds or in the water can multiply over this duration.” 

Brewing, storing, and serving cold brew at the correct temperatures is another significant factor for cold brew.

“The ‘danger zone’, which spans temperatures between 5°C (41°F) and 60°C (140°F), is a critical range in which harmful microorganisms can rapidly proliferate in food, potentially causing foodborne illnesses,” Krzyztof says. 

“Cold brew coffee, despite being a chilled beverage, is not exempt from the risks posed by this temperature range, especially during various stages of its production, storage, and service.”

One major concern is botulism – an illness caused by a toxin produced by the bacteria Clostridium botulinum (C. bot.). When consumed, it attacks the body’s nerves and causes symptoms such as muscle paralysis, breathing difficulties, and can cause death.

The National Coffee Association lists this as the “primary source of danger” in mishandled cold brew, explaining that it can be found in canned, bottled or kegged versions. Although only around 110 botulism cases are reported in the USA each year, its potential risk has prompted widespread recalls of cold brew, oat drink, and low-fat milk.

“Botulism risk arises when conditions become anaerobic (low oxygen) and the pH levels rise, as might occur after in sealed or airtight containers like kegs,” Krzysztof says.

“These conditions can enable the growth and toxin production of [C. bot.], particularly if the cold brew is brewed and stored for a few days above the recommended temperature range.” 

Reacting to food safety concerns

Cold brew is mostly safe to drink, but contamination can happen due to lapses in hygiene during the production process. This means it is essential for manufacturers and coffee shops to be vigilant in handling practices.

The most common errors causing microbial contamination are insufficient staff training and poor personal hygiene. However, Krzysztof believes the primary cause is inadequate equipment sanitation

“In my opinion, it is the most common contributor,” he says. “Insufficient cleaning and sanitisation of equipment and surfaces used during cold brew production can introduce and promote the growth of harmful microorganisms.”

Due to the large number of risks that can occur at any time during the production process, manufacturers and coffee shops are increasingly adopting food safety plans and certifications to ensure safe practices.

Large producers and co-packing facilities must comply with regulations and obtain necessary certifications. An example of this is the low-acid canned food (LACF) certification, which is mandatory for all non-alcoholic consumables in the US. 

For retailers, food safety plans ensure all consumable products – including cold brew – meet certain safety standards. For instance, a Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP) plan has seven key steps that help reduce contamination risks.

“By implementing a HACCP Plan, retail locations can systematically identify potential hazards, apply appropriate controls, and ensure that critical safety measures are consistently met throughout the cold brew production and distribution chain,” Krzysztof says.

While HAACP plans and similar food safety protocols are effective in reducing contamination risks, they are typically not mandatory in retail settings as long as brewing and serving conditions remain outside the temperature “danger zone”.

However, as the cold coffee segment grows and gains more market share, enforcing strict safety protocols from production to retail could become vital in ensuring a consistent and safe product.

“As the global demand for cold brew continues to rise, the need for industry-wide education, standardisation of practices, and regulatory oversight becomes increasingly evident,” Krzysztof says.

“Ensuring consistent food safety practices in cold brew production and serving is crucial to maintaining consumer safety and upholding the quality of cold brew products worldwide.” 

While actual instances of health issues from consuming cold brew are rare, the risk of product recalls or failing food safety certifications is very real. As the segment gains more market share, it’s crucial for businesses to establish proper procedures sooner rather than later.

Opening a coffee shop is not for the faint of heart. It requires substantial upfront investment, generally ranging from $80,000 to $275,000. With soaring overheads, market saturation, and turbulent coffee prices, it’s harder than ever to establish a successful coffee business.

For this reason, many prospective coffee shop owners turn to their communities for support – using crowdfunding to help finance their business idea.

Crowdfunding typically involves setting up a funding campaign on online platforms like Kickstarter, where individuals contribute money to support projects or business ventures – like opening a coffee shop.

This is different from traditional funding channels, as it doesn’t involve a financial return for investment. Instead, backers of crowdfunding campaigns are remunerated through some kind of rewards system.

This is often an attractive alternative for coffee shop owners, as it allows them to bypass bank loans. Having said this, crowdfunding is rarely enough to entirely fund opening a coffee shop. It is typically used alongside traditional sources of funding.

Additionally, crowdfunding isn’t without its challenges – and requires significant planning to be successful.

Initiating a sense of community

Many people choose to crowdfund because the process initiates a sense of community from the outset. Before you even start trading, you have established a group of customers who are loyal and interested in your venture.

“The crowdfunding campaign helped a lot in getting people interested in the business idea I wanted to pursue – since I wanted to create a business where there’s a lot of people involved, I thought it would be the best idea to include people from the beginning,” says Ken Braz, founder and head roaster of August 63, a micro-roastery and mobile coffee shop in Germany. 

“I wanted to build up a community from day one and get people excited about building up a business together. You get some ‘regulars’ and a solid customer base before your product is even out – this is something that probably helps you more in the long term over a classical bank loan.”

While Ken did secure the necessary funds to launch his venture, he believes that aspiring business owners often underestimate the planning effort required for a successful campaign.

“I think I planned the whole campaign for around two months, and I exchanged with a few people that already submitted some crowdfunding campaigns and tried to learn from their experiences,” he says. 

As a part of the planning, crowdfunding campaigns can live and die by their marketing strategy. 

“It’s impossible to reach your funding goal by only doing some social media posts and hope your friends, family or audience are going to invest – they have to feel that you are passionate about your goal to success and that you are willing to really go for it,” says Ken.

“You need to come up with a communication plan including media, press, events and many more that are distributed throughout the whole campaign.”

The nature of crowdfunding deeply involves the funders. This is a good thing because it established a group of loyal supporters. On the flip side, your backers need regular updates that will keep them on board.

The financial risks 

A campaign requires thorough financial planning and should tie in with the overall business plan. This includes determining your target amount and incorporating tiers of support.

“You have to make sure your campaign is properly planned, that the products you’re willing to offer are well thought through,” Ken says.

Around 9% of Kickstarter campaigns fail to deliver on their rewards. Coffee shops using these platforms must carefully cost their rewards system and ensure they can keep their promises.

“I honestly didn’t properly calculate the prices of many rewards, so in the end, I couldn’t even use a lot of money from what I gathered,” says Ken. “I still had to take a small loan from the bank to be able to start up.”

Moreover, popular crowdsourcing platforms typically claim 5-8% of pledged funds to cover fees, and taxes on crowd-sourced funds can vary based on the project’s nature and location.

“If you gather €10,000 at a crowdfunding campaign, you’re probably only able to keep around 30-40% of that,” says Ken. “You have to pay taxes on the sum since it’s mostly products you already sell before they are produced, and you have a lot of production costs as well.”

Ultimately, crowdfunding is not as straightforward as it may seem. Especially with a venture as risky as opening a coffee shop, a thorough financial plan is needed to ensure your business is left with enough money when the campaign comes to an end.

But the risks don’t stop there.

One of the biggest risks is the binary nature of crowdfunding. If a campaign fails to reach its target goal within the specified timeframe, all contributed funds are returned to backers – leaving prospective coffee shop owners with nothing.

A failed crowdfunding campaign can not only waste valuable time and resources for a new coffee business, but it can also damage the reputation before it has had the opportunity to begin.

Despite all the risks, Ken believes that the social capital gained from such campaigns is invaluable: “If you feel like creating a crowdfunding campaign, go for it – but make sure to put a lot of time, passion and effort into it,” he says.

“People support your business and support you as a person more than they support the product, or how the advertising video you produced looks like. Be genuine, be passionate and good things will come to you.”

Smartphone technology has completely transformed how people interact with each other and the world around them – and it may be changing the way we approach brewing espresso.

In the coffee sector, smartphones have streamlined customer ordering experiences. Between 2018 and 2020, around 27% of US consumers and over 85% of Chinese consumers ordered coffee using smartphones, either directly through company platforms or third-party apps.

Today, smartphones are not only enhancing ordering experiences, but are changing the way baristas and prosumers understand espresso.

In the past, what occurred during extraction was largely unknown. Over time, new technology provided this insight – opening up a new way to explore espresso and make a better cup of coffee.

Deeper insights into the brew process

Espresso apps have largely benefited home baristas. During the Covid-19 pandemic, over 85% of US consumers shifted to drinking coffee at home. This led to a surge in coffee machine and grinder sales, with manufacturers witnessing a 70% rise. 

More specifically, the pandemic led to a surge in coffee prosumers. An inherent characteristic of a prosumer is that they are more engaged with the product.

As such, their rise in the coffee sector has deeply involved espresso apps and data processing technology to gain deeper insights into their brew process. By being able to connect directly to machines or scales, prosumers have much greater precision and repeatability.

“These technologies allow us to make more accurate measurements and see real-time brewing data,” says Fanie Botes, production roaster at Bluebird Coffee Roastery.

“Being able to calculate espresso flow rates quickly and accurately, measure TDS and extraction percentages on the fly, and compare the data we record to what we perceive on the cup, all contribute to a deeper and more accessible understanding of espresso extraction and the nuances thereof.”

Additionally, smart coffee machines make connecting to a smartphone more seamless. Many can now track the key variables throughout the brewing process, such as temperature, flow rate, and pressure.

For example, the Elektra Verve is the combination of Italian design and a professional experience, with the ability to connect to your smartphone to track all key brew variables. For many, these variables are still relatively new concepts. But with the time to thoroughly engage with the data, home baristas can improve their understanding and make educated decisions to refine their brew process.

Beyond this, espresso apps can help home baristas connect with other enthusiasts across the globe, comparing methods and results.

“Looking beyond tracking their own data, through the internet, prosumers have the ability to compare their data to others around the globe,” Fanie says.

“Although growing, the home coffee brewing community is still relatively small – but being able to connect and engage with other prosumers despite the distance between them, gives prosumers access to more information and a more engaging brewing and tasting experience.”

While prosumers enjoy the advantages of smarter technology for espresso brewing, it’s important to note that the majority of coffee consumed globally remains out-of-home.

Can espresso apps be used in cafés?

For coffee shops, smartphones can allow baristas to record and interpret data in a simple way.

“Smartphones allow us to record and easily sift through the myriad of measurements we make every day, which in turn allows us to identify trends, maintain high standards and improve the product we deliver,” says Fanie. “In a café, this can be anything from recording brew recipes and results to stock control and accounting.”

Ultimately, espresso apps give baristas more tools to improve their skills and the quality of the coffee they produce. “More accurate and immediate measurements will allow us to brew coffee within our selected brewing parameters with fewer deviations,” says Fanie.

While integrating espresso apps might be challenging for busy coffee shops, many consider the investment worthwhile. In general, digitalising processes provides access to valuable data which makes streamlining operations and making improvements easier.

Additionally, espresso apps don’t have to be used with each coffee; they can be used as a tool for dialling in, for example.

The benefits of espresso apps are clear. Fanie suggests that as they become more popular, they could become almost impossible to avoid. But while these technologies may become ubiquitous, it’s up to the individual business to decide how to implement them – as they have the potential to bring greater benefits to the sector beyond just improving coffee quality.

“Taking these tasks off of the barista’s plate allows them to deliver better service and offer more engaging experiences to consumers,” says Fanie

“All of these tools may dilute the need for highly skilled professionals in terms of managing brewing variables – but they allow us to concentrate on better customer service, and to amplify the platform we have to share our knowledge and passion with our consumers.”