Of all the steps involved in making coffee, steaming milk remains one of the most highly valued and respected skills. 

“For about three months we had to train and study milk – and of course coffee,” says Denes Biro, director of UK sales at Heylo Coffee – recalling his time training at Taylor Street Baristas. “We were only able to steam milk and serve it to a customer after about three months and after an exam as a junior barista.”

To achieve a velvety texture, precision is crucial. The steam wand needs to be positioned correctly within the milk jug, angled just right; it should hiss not too much, but not too little, creating a whirlpool effect that incorporates the steam into the milk without producing large air bubbles.

A less-discussed aspect is the crucial role timing plays in achieving top-quality milk. All of these steps must be completed within a narrow timeframe – too long, and the proteins responsible for the milk’s structure will begin to break down, and so will the sugars that give it its sweetness. In other words, there’s very little margin for error.

When you get it right, it can make all the difference. “When you see a well-textured, shiny latte or flat white with beautiful latte art – or even a nice heart in the middle of the cup – that’s already a high-quality beverage,” says Denes. “It’s better for customers, it’s better to look at and people are happy to pay what they pay.”

In this sense, timing plays a critical role in achieving both the right texture and temperature for milk – impacting the overall quality of the final beverage. However, this isn’t the only way timing comes into play when foaming milk.

Timing is crucial

Generally speaking, it’s easiest to draw latte art when pouring into fresh espresso. However, even experienced baristas can find it challenging to ensure that both the milk and espresso are ready at the same time – especially in a busy coffee shop.

After steaming milk, you’ll usually see small bubbles on the surface – regardless of skill level. Resting the milk for 10 to 20 seconds allows these remaining air pockets to rise to the surface of the milk and settle.

A gentle tap on the counter and a swirl of the jug can then remove these bubbles. This process is what results in truly velvety and shiny milk. However, integrating it into an already busy and complex workflow can be challenging.

Indeed, in busy coffee shops, espresso shots can sit waiting to be poured into – as they slowly degrade and their flavour begins to change. As such, steaming milk is often the pressure point on an espresso bar, and the process can be rushed.

Managing this is a challenge for any busy coffee shop – and they often end up relying on their most skilled baristas during their busiest days.

However, this may not be the case for much longer. Automated milk frothing systems are now a viable option for cafés and provide a practical solution for those struggling to consistently deliver high-quality milk.

A new way of foaming milk

Automatic milk frothing systems, like Heylo’s milk module, offer a real solution to businesses – especially those that have an over-reliance on their most skilled baristas.

Indeed, creating specialty coffee-quality milk takes months of training, which can pose a significant challenge to businesses given the high staff turnover rate within the industry. The average staff turnover rate in the US hospitality industry was 85% in 2021 – significantly higher than the national average of 47%.

While integrating this new technology may require some workflow adjustments, once the team becomes proficient with it, it has the potential to streamline operations and make coffee shops less dependent on highly skilled staff. This ultimately places them in a less vulnerable position in the context of labour problems in the coffee industry.

Furthermore, thanks to Heylo’s user-friendly interface, baristas can initiate milk preparation precisely when needed, allowing for better control over the timing of the entire process – meaning that perfect milk can be poured into freshly brewed espresso more of the time.

Beyond the improvements it can bring to workflow, this new technology can arguably improve the texture and flavour of the milk. Rather than injecting steam into it – which condenses into water and ultimately dilutes the liquid – Heylo’s steamless system uses aeration and delivers pure, frothed milk.

“With the right settings, you should get the same amount of milk, the right texture, and the same temperature every time,” says Denes. “As long as the milk is kept cold in a fridge before it’s used, and you have the right settings on the machine, the microfoam is really impressive,” says Denes.

Ultimately, achieving high-quality milk has long been a challenge for the coffee industry. It demands precision during steaming, combined with careful timing. However, by embracing new technology, coffee shops can make this task not only manageable, but relatively effortless.

New Ground Coffee

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In recent years, advancements in automation, measurement tools and brewing equipment have not only enabled better workflow but also a more thorough understanding of coffee’s behaviour when we brew it.

Some quality assessment methods based around cupping have allowed actors across the industry to attribute a numerical score to coffee. However, these protocols often rely on years of practice and proper taste calibration, which can be variable, time-consuming and subject to unconscious biases. 

In 2008, technology company Voice Systems Technology (VST) Inc. began releasing products targeted at the coffee industry. Among these was the LAB Coffee Refractometer, a device that enables the user to measure the extraction and total dissolved solids (TDS) of liquid coffee – providing a more scientific approach. 

They work by measuring the deflection of light as it passes through an object. By observing how light refracts as it touches the coffee, a refractometer provides a TDS measurement, which can be used to establish the percentage extraction yield, or the percentage of extracted material within the total brew liquid.

This can give a barista quick and precise insight into their extraction, and generally allows a deeper understanding of what occurs during the brew process.

Prior to recent rule changes, refractometers measured the TDS of each coffee and ensured consistency at the World Brewers Cup Championships.

Given their usefulness in elevating quality and improving consistency, it would make sense for refractometers to be a common tool used in coffee shops. So why is this not the case?

Refractometers’ place in coffee shops

Over the years, an increasing number of tools have found their way onto coffee bars across the specialty sector. Distribution tools and automatic tampers help to improve extraction and consistency, for example. However, despite their shared purpose, coffee refractometers are nowhere to be seen.

“It can be that using the refractometer can slow down the workflow, especially in busy shops,” says Izabela Fortini, international sales manager at The Barn. “In my experience, it is mostly used only during the development of a new recipe, and for the quality control of these recipes, but not usually when the shop is busy.”

Using coffee refractometers is relatively straightforward, but it does require training. The protocol to ensure accurate measurements, as well as proper refractometer maintenance, may make it impractical for some coffee shops without the necessary time and resources for such training. Despite this barrier, Izabela believes the investment in staff training is worth it.

“Investing in good personal and on-site training is the key to a successful coffee shop, and in my experience the more the baristas learn, the more they fall in love with the product,” she says. “And this always makes them care for the quality.”

While not ubiquitous across the sector, certain specialty coffee shops have made this investment. However, with the growing presence of autonomous technology, we may begin to see fewer and fewer refractometers.

A recent report estimates that automation in the coffee industry will be worth over £3 billion in the next three years. This indicates a growing preference for a more efficient workflow and a systematic approach to quality – in contrast to the manual approach a refractometer represents. 

Is it not more about taste?

Many would argue that the numbers provided by a refractometer are less important than the actual taste of the coffee.

Furthermore, as specialty coffee expands into new audiences and attempts to shed its “elitist” reputation, it could be considered misguided for refractometers and TDS measurements to dictate what “quality” is, rather than the preferences of consumers.

For many, however, it’s not one or the other. On the contrary, refractometers can be a useful tool in reaffirming quality and taste assessments, or to help train new baristas.

“I think that for quality control and for learning this tool is essential,” says Izabela. “Nevertheless, learning how to taste and being able to understand extraction is something that all good baristas need to know how to do.”

“I believe that taste is always more important, when you have a good barista they will use it as a tool to help. When the barista is not so experienced they will use it as a tool to learn, making the refractometer a very important tool to have in a quality coffee shop.”

As such, the usefulness of refractometers in coffee shops depends on what they are used for, and how they are integrated into training, service, and quality assessment.

“Using refractometers when you are dialling in your espresso in the morning is very important, and of course during the training of new baristas and new coffee recipes,” Izabela says.  

“I believe that the refractometer can help with quality control and consistency of the recipes on a day-to-day basis. In the long term, it helps with optimisation of recipes, and helps new baristas to understand extraction and how to taste the coffee.” 

Ultimately, the best approach will vary from one coffee shop to another – depending on their unique needs, and their capacity to incorporate the tool into their operations.

“I think the refractometer is important and will continue to be very important in the future,” Izabela says. “Even with new equipment, we will always need the baristas to know how to taste and this tool is excellent to help us learn and keep us calibrated.” 

In Italy, the cappuccino is a thing of iconic status.

It goes beyond a source of caffeine; it represents a tranquil moment to savour before the day begins. Coffee shops in Italy are also social hubs. The act of grabbing a cappuccino often means catching up with friends, discussing the latest news, or simply watching life go by.

As such, the cappuccino is often emblematic of the Italian pace of life – unhurried and enjoyed. In an era of instant gratification, it stands as a symbol of taking time to enjoy life’s simple pleasures.

Furthermore, just like pizza and pasta, the cappuccino is seen as a testament to Italian culinary prowess. Its global popularity is a source of pride as it showcases the country’s influence on international food culture.

Indeed, its popularity has earned its place as a staple on the specialty coffee menu – at least, a version of it.

The Instituto Nazionale Espresso Italiano (or the Italian Espresso National Institute) says, “A high-quality cappuccino that abides by tradition is made of 25ml espresso and 100ml steam-foamed milk”. However, specialty coffee’s definition has been more challenging to pin down.

Specialty coffee’s cappuccino

On both sides of the counter, there is a lot of confusion about the size of a cappuccino. Some, however, have a very clear idea.

“A traditional cappuccino is always going to be 6oz – period,” says Shawn Nickerson, owner of Café Cesura. “If a customer orders a 16oz cappuccino, I’ll give them a foamy latte. Otherwise, the drink would need six shots for the correct ratio.”

Meanwhile, Dhan Tamang, five-time UK National Latte Art Champion, defines a cappuccino as “an espresso-based beverage, made with a double shot espresso and topped with steamed/textured milk served in 5oz to 6oz cups”.

Milk texture is a defining feature of a cappuccino. In Italy, steamed milk is usually added so that a dome settles on top. Sometimes, milk is added first, and foam is scooped on top, as creating a perfect dome can be challenging. In both cases, a significant portion of the drink is the milk foam on top.

However, a specialty coffee cappuccino looks very different. The cappuccino presents another opportunity to draw latte art – which has become a priority in specialty coffee. As a result, the level of milk foam is much thinner and wetter. In many cases, this means that the cappuccino has become indistinguishable from other milk-based beverages, such as a flat white or latte.

“I think when we say a traditional cappuccino, not everyone in the room may be picturing the same drink,” says Shawn. “I think there is a renewed interest in smaller drinks, and I think folks order cappuccinos because they don’t know what else to order.”

In other words, customers may be struggling to understand what exactly a cappuccino is. Given how iconic a drink it is, it could be argued that specialty coffee has deviated away from what made the drink so recognisable and culturally significant.

The “new” traditional cappuccino

The audience for specialty coffee is expanding. Increasingly, customers are demanding more than the light, delicate flavours the sector was previously associated with. Instead, they are seeking the rich, indulgent experience that the traditional cappuccino represents.

Yet, achieving the level of foam required for an Italian-style cappuccino while maintaining the milk texture expected in specialty coffee has proven challenging.

However, new milk-frothing technology has addressed this issue. For example, Heylo’s milk module is able to deliver a wide range of froth levels, giving baristas the creamy, frothy milk associated with the traditional cappuccino.

Furthermore, unlike using a steam wand, its induction heating method froths milk without injecting steam into the liquid. This means the milk is not diluted with water and results in an even creamier texture.

As such, new milk-frothing technology has provided an opportunity to bring back the traditional cappuccino while meeting the standards of specialty coffee – merging the new with the old.

What’s next is for the specialty coffee community to decide whether to honour its heritage, or to forge ahead with its own definitions and ways of making coffee.

Smartphone technology has completely transformed how people interact with each other and the world around them – and it may be changing the way we approach brewing espresso.

In the coffee sector, smartphones have streamlined customer ordering experiences. Between 2018 and 2020, around 27% of US consumers and over 85% of Chinese consumers ordered coffee using smartphones, either directly through company platforms or third-party apps.

Today, smartphones are not only enhancing ordering experiences, but are changing the way baristas and prosumers understand espresso.

In the past, what occurred during extraction was largely unknown. Over time, new technology provided this insight – opening up a new way to explore espresso and make a better cup of coffee.

Deeper insights into the brew process

Espresso apps have largely benefited home baristas. During the Covid-19 pandemic, over 85% of US consumers shifted to drinking coffee at home. This led to a surge in coffee machine and grinder sales, with manufacturers witnessing a 70% rise. 

More specifically, the pandemic led to a surge in coffee prosumers. An inherent characteristic of a prosumer is that they are more engaged with the product.

As such, their rise in the coffee sector has deeply involved espresso apps and data processing technology to gain deeper insights into their brew process. By being able to connect directly to machines or scales, prosumers have much greater precision and repeatability.

“These technologies allow us to make more accurate measurements and see real-time brewing data,” says Fanie Botes, production roaster at Bluebird Coffee Roastery.

“Being able to calculate espresso flow rates quickly and accurately, measure TDS and extraction percentages on the fly, and compare the data we record to what we perceive on the cup, all contribute to a deeper and more accessible understanding of espresso extraction and the nuances thereof.”

Additionally, smart coffee machines make connecting to a smartphone more seamless. Many can now track the key variables throughout the brewing process, such as temperature, flow rate, and pressure.

For example, the Elektra Verve is the combination of Italian design and a professional experience, with the ability to connect to your smartphone to track all key brew variables. For many, these variables are still relatively new concepts. But with the time to thoroughly engage with the data, home baristas can improve their understanding and make educated decisions to refine their brew process.

Beyond this, espresso apps can help home baristas connect with other enthusiasts across the globe, comparing methods and results.

“Looking beyond tracking their own data, through the internet, prosumers have the ability to compare their data to others around the globe,” Fanie says.

“Although growing, the home coffee brewing community is still relatively small – but being able to connect and engage with other prosumers despite the distance between them, gives prosumers access to more information and a more engaging brewing and tasting experience.”

While prosumers enjoy the advantages of smarter technology for espresso brewing, it’s important to note that the majority of coffee consumed globally remains out-of-home.

Can espresso apps be used in cafés?

For coffee shops, smartphones can allow baristas to record and interpret data in a simple way.

“Smartphones allow us to record and easily sift through the myriad of measurements we make every day, which in turn allows us to identify trends, maintain high standards and improve the product we deliver,” says Fanie. “In a café, this can be anything from recording brew recipes and results to stock control and accounting.”

Ultimately, espresso apps give baristas more tools to improve their skills and the quality of the coffee they produce. “More accurate and immediate measurements will allow us to brew coffee within our selected brewing parameters with fewer deviations,” says Fanie.

While integrating espresso apps might be challenging for busy coffee shops, many consider the investment worthwhile. In general, digitalising processes provides access to valuable data which makes streamlining operations and making improvements easier.

Additionally, espresso apps don’t have to be used with each coffee; they can be used as a tool for dialling in, for example.

The benefits of espresso apps are clear. Fanie suggests that as they become more popular, they could become almost impossible to avoid. But while these technologies may become ubiquitous, it’s up to the individual business to decide how to implement them – as they have the potential to bring greater benefits to the sector beyond just improving coffee quality.

“Taking these tasks off of the barista’s plate allows them to deliver better service and offer more engaging experiences to consumers,” says Fanie

“All of these tools may dilute the need for highly skilled professionals in terms of managing brewing variables – but they allow us to concentrate on better customer service, and to amplify the platform we have to share our knowledge and passion with our consumers.”

From car dealerships to clothes shops, coffee is entering more consumer spaces than ever before. Businesses are increasingly looking to superautomatic coffee machines for an answer to this evolving demand.

Superautomatic coffee machines emerged in the 1960s, and Carimali was at the forefront of their development. Often referred to as “bean-to-cup machines”, they automate every step of the brewing process: grinding, dosing, and dispensing.

“They are developed to guarantee quality and consistency even when used by a less-experienced operator, without giving up the value of fresh beans and milk quality,” says Camilla Viaro, operational marketing manager for Carimali.

This is a contrast to semi-automatic machines, which gives the user more responsibility over the brewing process and therefore provides more margin for error. Fully automated machines have been developed to take on this responsibility – streamlining the process for those less experienced without sacrificing on quality.

“The main difference between semi-automatic and superautomatic coffee machines is what is required for the user making a beverage,” says Camilla. “In fully automatic machines, once you set all the parameters and fill the machine with coffee beans and milk, you can select and enjoy the drink.

“The machine works autonomously and guarantees a drink in keeping with the preset.”

Superautomatic coffee machines are clearly a good option for certain businesses – but what should you look for when buying one?

Menu customisation

The menu is the operator’s first point of contact with the machine. An interface that is easy to navigate can enhance the user experience and make it more likely for the operator to maximise the machine’s capabilities.

Furthermore, menu options must continue to align with evolving consumer preferences. An increasing number of consumers are branching out from traditional coffee beverages, expecting a range of hot and cold options instead.

Major coffee brands have been observing this in recent years. For example, Dutch Bros Coffee reported that cold beverages made up 84% of their sales mix between Q3 2021 and Q3 2022.

It’s increasingly important for superautomatic coffee machines to reflect this shift and adapt to changing consumer preferences – offering versatility across a range of hot and cold drinks.

Carimali’s SilverAce Plus has a 10″ touchscreen with up to 60 drink selections, giving the user a wide range of choices. The SilverAce Plus and the SilverAce both feature four hoppers for two coffees, two powders, and the capacity to stock fresh milk. As a result, these machines are able to meet the increasingly diverse demands of today’s consumers.

Additionally, Carimali has incorporated telemetry systems into their machines for remote interaction, data collection, and quick intervention in the event of malfunctions. Given that maintenance remains the responsibility of the user, a comprehensive system for this should be in place.

“The CARIcare telemetry system even includes touchless functionality, enabling users to interact with the machine directly from their own devices,” says Camilla. “This helps to create a safer work environment.”

Milk frothing capability

The demand for plant milks continues to soar, with sales growing by 19% between 2020 and 2022, while dairy experienced a decline of 9%. As this trend shows no signs of slowing down, it has become imperative for superautomatic coffee machines to accommodate alternative milk options.

Producing cold-frothed milk is also becoming an essential requirement for superautomatic coffee machines. The cold coffee sector is projected to grow at an annual rate of 22% over the next five years, reaching a total value of $1.35 billion by 2027.

To stay relevant in the future, superautomatic machines must integrate cold milk frothing systems. For example, the SilverAce Plus is equipped with CARIcream, a cutting-edge delivery system that can dispense hot or cold milk.

Size & daily production volume

Size plays a crucial role in locations with limited space, such as gas stations and hotel breakfast bars. Compact superautomatic coffee machines are increasingly sought after to deliver a fully automated experience without occupying excessive counter space.

“We offer smaller machines for locations that may be compact but still provide a wide range of beverage options to satisfy even the most demanding users,” says Camilla. “You’ll find our machines in increasingly different locations, such as coffee shops, hotels, restaurants, offices, and even at home.”

These locations can experience particularly busy periods. Therefore, a machine that can handle high-volume production could be crucial for certain businesses.

With an average daily production of 200 cups, both machines in the SilverAce range are well-equipped to meet the growing expectations of customers who expect coffee in various settings – such as car dealerships, clothes shops, and waiting rooms.

“Automatisation allows wide customisation possibilities and, combining technology and flexibility, can develop easy solutions to answer various market needs,” Camilla says.

Superautomatic coffee machines’ energy usage

Energy usage is a big part of the conversation when selecting a coffee machine. With an increased focus on sustainability, customers are coming to expect businesses to address their impact on the environment. In addition, keeping energy costs down helps to improve profit margins.

Superautomatic machines can offer additional tools to help businesses save money on energy consumption. For instance, Carimali’s MaxSave feature can save the specific energy used by a coffee machine by 25% to 90% by detecting when someone is in close proximity.

There is a limited amount of data available on the precise savings for coffee shops, but Carimali estimates that businesses can save over 30% on their energy costs.

While machines with motion detectors may come with a slightly higher upfront cost, the long-term savings they provide outweigh the initial investment.

Ultimately, there are many factors to consider when purchasing a superautomatic coffee machine. Even with one manufacturer like Carimali, the options on offer are more extensive than ever before. Conducting thorough research is crucial for businesses to find a machine that perfectly aligns with their specific requirements – because the ideal solution is out there, waiting to be discovered.

Pre-infusion is the foundation of a good espresso – setting the stage for even extraction and ultimately shaping what it tastes like

It refers to the process of saturating the coffee puck with a small amount of water before the shot is actually pulled. This phase can be pivotal – creating the conditions that allow even and consistent extraction.

At low pressure, pre-infusion helps to saturate the puck before extraction. This means that when the water pressure increases, it does so evenly without finding paths of least resistance – resulting in a quicker and more uniform extraction

Extraction can be compromised without this stage as the coffee puck is introduced to hot water at high pressures. This can result in channelling, uneven extraction, and undesirable flavours in the final cup profile.

It can be particularly important for lighter roasts, too. As a general rule, lighter roasts should be ground finer because they are less soluble. A finer grind mitigates this by increasing the surface area, meaning that the water is in contact with “more” of the coffee.

However, a finer grind also means a more compact coffee puck. This increases resistance, which means water is more likely to find “weaknesses” in the structure of the puck, thereby creating channels.

But pre-infusion isn’t simply a way to mitigate mistakes. It can also be used to enhance the flavour and aroma of any given coffee.

What pre-infusion brings to the final cup

As a barista, one of your primary responsibilities is producing consistent, repeatable coffee – and pre-infusion can play a key role in this.

For example, the saturation of the coffee puck under low pressures can lead to greater precision. As we know, pressure and flow rate play a central role in the extraction process and are carefully controlled throughout extraction. Yet, the set pressure and flow rate profiles are only effective if they align with the coffee puck’s resistance. Pre-infusion is crucial in setting this foundation and optimising the brew variables throughout extraction.

Ensuring that the coffee bed is fully saturated also means that a greater surface area of the coffee is in contact with the water, leading to higher extraction yields. With more contact time during pre-infusion, the water can diffuse more effectively and carry more flavour compounds into the final cup. This can increase body, complexity, and intensity.

“Everyone has different taste notes they’re looking for,” says Dr Robert McKeon Aloe, author of Engineering Better Espresso: Data Driven Coffee. “But I really like the mouthfeel and the richness of espresso, and pre-infusion is crucial for that.”

It is now becoming more widely accepted that this stage is crucial for even extraction. Robert highlights its role in optimising another brew parameter.

“One of the most important parts of pre-infusion is equalising the temperature,” Robert says. “Water is entering the portafilter between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius, while your puck is probably somewhere between 20 and 30°C.

“When they meet, you’re losing a lot of that temperature. Pre-infusion allows you to address this differential and bring the temperature to a point that is better for extraction to take place.”

Important variables for baristas to consider

Robert believes that baristas and businesses should experiment with pre-infusion to understand the benefits it can bring to their espresso shots:

Most pre-infusions are static, meaning a low, constant pressure is maintained throughout. However, new technology allows dynamic pre-infusions to be explored.

“What I’ve been finding recently is applying an increasing flow or pressure profile is better than applying static pressure,” Robert says. “I found that if you do a pre-emptive pressure increase, it does better for pre-infusion in terms of extraction.”

Only recently has new espresso machine technology enabled temperature, flow rate, and pressure to be manipulated during the pre-infusion phase. For example, the Heylo espresso module uses an induction heating system which allows fine-tuned control over each variable.

Plus, with a memory capacity that can store thousands of profiles, the Heylo espresso module offers businesses and baristas the space to experiment and optimise their pre-infusion for each coffee.

Ultimately, innovation within the sector has allowed pre-infusion to be understood not just as a mitigating process, but as an opportunity to enhance extraction and improve cup quality. As espresso machine technology improves, it could increasingly be a creative space for the industry to explore.

“Acidity” can be a contentious word in the coffee industry.

Previously, there were limited things a barista could do to reduce or increase the presence of acidity in the cup, but this is changing as new espresso machine technology gives baristas greater control over brew variables.

One variable that is receiving increased attention is flow rate, which refers to the speed at which water passes through the bed of coffee during extraction.

“Flow rate is a fixed variable in most espresso machines”, explains Fabrizio Sención, a multi-time winner of the Mexico Barista Championship and owner of PalReal. “And when I say fixed, I’m talking about ten grams per second – which is very aggressive.”

Most modern machines can reduce the flow rate at the beginning of the shot, which can be hugely beneficial during pre-infusion.

Rather than hitting the bed of coffee at a high and disruptive flow rate, a slower rate of flow during the first part of the extraction helps to fully saturate the coffee before higher pressures are exerted. This has been proven to reduce channelling and ensure more even extraction.

Flow rate has more recently given us the ability to control extraction beyond pre-infusion, however. Different rates of flow at various stages during the extraction can dramatically alter the flavour of coffee and bring forward a fuller spectrum of characteristics.

When we track the flow rate throughout extraction in this way, it gives us something called a flow profile. This is typically represented in a graph which shows the quantity of water that flows from the group head over a fixed amount of time.

The total weight of water is then divided by the time, giving flow rate as a figure in grams per second (g/s).

“One of the things I really enjoy about flow rate is that as long as you have your pressure fixed, flow control can bring out a completely new sensory experience with espresso,” says Fabrizio.

Highlighting or masking acidity through flow profiling

Flow profiling can be a valuable tool when you are looking to extract certain compounds over others to bring forward specific flavour characteristics.

“By controlling flow, you can present water to the coffee more intentionally to target very specific flavours,” Fabrizio says.

For example, flow profiling can accentuate the acidic and sugary flavour compounds that are extracted at the beginning of the shot. 

“If you are passive with the amount of water at the beginning of the extraction you can extend your pre-infusion time, this will translate to a more refined or well-balanced acidity,” he says.

Baristas looking to highlight acidity, particularly with light and medium roasts, should therefore aim for a flow rate of around 5g/s during pre-infusion, and never allow the flow rate to exceed 7g/s.

By doing this, the period of time spent extracting the acidic and sweet flavour compounds is extended, allowing more fruit-like acidity to come forward.

Fabrizio concedes that not everyone shares his enthusiasm for an acidic cup profile, however. For those who are new to the brighter and often sharper flavours of specialty coffee, curtailing acidity might be a good thing.

As such, flow rate can be dialled in to reduce acidity for those seeking a more balanced cup profile. Fabrizio notes that, when considering your customers’ flavour preferences, dialling in coffee can be just as important a consideration as the type of coffee you choose.

However, an important distinction must be made between sourness and acidity. Under-extraction or uneven extraction can result in a sour, murky cup profile.

This can often happen with lighter roasts, where flavours already tend to be more acidic. On top of this, baristas grind lighter roasts finer as these coffees give up their soluble material less easily than darker roasts.

When you grind finer, however, the chances of creating channels in your bed of coffee are increased. Therefore, sour flavours that are a result of uneven extractions are more common.

The benefit of manipulating flow rate is that the grind size can remain fine because water can be introduced to the coffee in a less aggressive way – reducing the likelihood of channelling. As a result, pleasant, acid-forward profiles can still be achieved.

Fabrizio explains that in order to have a bright, pleasant acidity, baristas need to balance sweetness with a little bitterness. Flow profiling, it seems, is one of the most interesting and newest ways to achieve this.

Flow profiling is increasingly accessible

Flow profiling is still a relatively new concept for the industry. For many, it is thought of as something to play with to perfect your shot.

For years, it was not able to be changed and many in the industry still don’t account for it when dialling in espresso. Instead, understanding the extraction basics such as brew ratios and puck distribution is a primary focus.

Now that flow profiling is a possibility, however, Fabrizio believes it is something baristas should understand more about.

Other variables which many are taught as fundamental become less critical when flow profiling. “We can have espressos that run for 45 seconds and we can have espressos that run for 18 seconds – they will both be very interesting, probably not optimal, but interesting,” he says.

Beyond making flow profiling possible, new technology is making it more accessible. For example, Heylo’s espresso module has enough memory to store thousands of profiles through a user-friendly interface.

Programmable flow rates provide the barista not only with the opportunity to radically change how they dial in espresso, but also with a new method for maintaining consistency throughout busy periods.

Ultimately, new technology presents baristas with greater opportunities when it comes to dialling in espresso and maintaining consistent quality. As acidic flavours continue to divide opinion, flow profiling is another tool in the barista’s toolkit that will help them cater to the growing audience of specialty coffee.

Filter coffee and espresso are two distinct drinks, with two different brewing techniques.

One is a modern, Italian invention that serves as the base of dozens of milk-based drinks, while the other is experiencing a renaissance with the rise of third-wave coffee. 

The brewing principles are fundamentally the same: extract all the delicious flavour compounds contained within ground coffee while leaving undesirable flavour components behind. However, they are both very different in terms of concentration; flavour, volume, and appearance.

Espresso is brewed under pressure, which facilitates the rapid extraction of sugars, oils, and other soluble compounds from the coffee. In combination with hot water and finely ground coffee, espresso machines can produce rich, full-bodied coffee topped with a layer of crema.

Typical espresso doses around 18g ground coffee to yield 30 – 40g of liquid – a brew ratio between 1:2 and 1:3. While filter coffee uses much more water – usually with a brew ratio of 1:16 to 1:17. Despite the contrasting volumes of water used for each method, they extract roughly the same amount of solubles.

Therefore, when filter coffee is described as less “strong” than espresso, this is referring to the concentration, texture and bold flavours of the drink, rather than the amount of dissolved material in the cup.

Filter coffee allows more delicate fruit and floral flavours to come through the cup; flavours that can be difficult to perceive in espresso. For coffee with lots of sweet, bright flavours, filter brewing might be more suitable.

Despite the fact that these two brewing methods are fundamentally different, some in the industry are recreating the conditions needed to brew filter coffee with an espresso machine.

Espresso machines are not built for filter coffee

Espresso machines have the basic components needed to brew filter coffee: hot water, a spray head, a filter basket, and, increasingly, automated dosing.

However, these machines are designed to brew at high pressures – usually at around nine bars. This is the first obstacle for brewing filter coffee, which is normally brewed at atmospheric pressure – one bar.

As well as pressure, we also need to consider flow rate: the speed at which water passes through the group head. Generally speaking, the greater the pressure, the higher the flow rate. An ideal flow rate for espresso is between 200g and 280g per 30 seconds. 

In filter brewing, flow is dictated by the speed at which water is poured over the coffee bed. For instance, a three-minute brew using 500 grams of water would result in a slower average flow rate of 83 grams per 30 seconds. This variance in flow rate leads to a difference in brew times.

Ultimately, espresso machines are designed to create high pressures for water to extract flavour compounds from finely ground coffee over a short period of time; while filter coffee extracts coarser grinds at atmospheric pressure over a longer time period.

Put simply, espresso machines have not been designed to brew filter coffee.

Some modern machines have started to incorporate pressure, flow, and temperature profiling. Until recently, this technology was being applied to perfecting espresso extraction – it did not have the capability to extend to filter brewing.

New technology offers more control over the brewing process

Alessandro Ceriani is a member of the Research and Development team at Heylo. He explains that the Heylo Coffee Module uses induction technology to address the issues that come with traditional boiler technology. With induction heating, total control over pressure, flow rate, and water temperature is achievable.

With this newfound control, Heylo has been able to develop a filter coffee recipe using the espresso module – as the machine’s boilerless technology means it is capable of brewing at low pressures.

“Using a preset flow and a dedicated particle size we can simulate an extraction like filter coffee,” Alessandro explains.

Due to the control over flow rate, the machine can produce a 150ml dose of filter coffee, brewed at very low pressures. Once pre-programmed, every subsequent cup will be consistent and simple – leaving the barista to focus on grind size.

While this is currently barely even an emerging school of coffee preparation, if scaled up it could have serious implications for the coffee industry.

Brewing pour-over coffee remains a highly desirable skill, one that takes time and training to perfect. But at the same time, it can also slow down service – brew bars are often a pressure point for coffee shops.

The ability to brew filter coffee with an espresso machine could relieve baristas of a timely task and keep service moving while freeing up staff to focus on customer service – a part of the job that is becoming increasingly valued.

Plus, for baristas to be able to switch seamlessly between espresso and filter within the same workstation could increase efficiency. One of the most cited limitations on efficiency within a coffee shop is workflow – having everything the barista needs in close proximity and in a logical position is crucial to an effective station. Brewing filter coffee on the same machine as espresso could be transformational for coffee shop productivity.

Moreover, without the need for a dedicated brew bar, smaller cafés and start-ups – which often don’t have the space and resources of more established shops – would be able to offer both filter and espresso.

While unlikely, should this innovation become scalable and therefore more commonplace, it could be revolutionary for the coffee industry. While still more of an experiment than anything else, bringing two historically different brewing techniques together with one machine could overhaul coffee shop workflow entirely.

When Kenneth Shoji left Japan following a devastating earthquake, he could only have dreamt that, in just over a decade, he would control a specialty coffee empire spanning the globe.

Yet today, Shoji’s coffee shop chain, % Arabica, has grown from one small store in Hong Kong to more than 150 outlets across 20 countries. From its headquarters in Kyoto, it has become an internationally recognised name owing to its minimalist coffee shop designs and striking espresso machines.

It has also built up a cult following, particularly among younger generations, with more than 300,000 followers across its Instagram profiles. In 2022, its impact on the UK since launching two years before, was recognised when it was awarded the Most Notable New Café award at the prestigious London Coffee Festival.

“I think it is amazing that someone with a vision and the right timing can spread a company so quickly,” says Eric Tessier, a coffee writer based in Tokyo. “I remember visiting Arabica when there were still only two locations, and the barista telling me that the owner envisioned expanding globally.

“At the time, I thought it was a far-fetched idea. Especially because many Western cities are saturated with coffee shops. Looking at the global map of % Arabica locations, I am rather humbled.”

Although some worried at the time that % Arabica’s rise signalled the end of Japan’s traditional coffee house culture, known as kissaten, most have now come to realise there is space for both.

“Traditional cafés, or kissaten, can be intimidating,” Eric explains. “% Arabica stood out at its founding as approachable and familiar to people from outside Kyoto.

“In the past decade, the third-wave coffee boom has swept over Japan and, with it, many iconic brands were born. I feel the idea of taking a concept and adding a detail-oriented focus is part of Japanese espresso culture.”

Coffee shop design: % Arabica’s not-so-secret weapon

When you walk into % Arabica’s flagship UK store in Covent Garden, London, you are immediately struck by how different it feels from other coffee shops. But then, after a few moments, you realise why.

A minimalist approach to their coffee shop design is ingrained into the entire identity of the brand.

The simple bar featuring an espresso machine built like an F1 car is set against a bare brick wall, with Chemexes hung and laid out deliberately upon light fixtures. There is a wall-mounted table with stools (both white) opposite the bar, with lighting that’s intentionally ambient and comforting.

The ‘%’ sign adorns multiple bar elements – including the paper cups, coasters, and sugar packets (all white, of course). Reflecting its attention to detail, there are also mini plastic simple syrup containers (akin to Domino’s dips) for iced drinks, with the same ‘%’ branding on top.

The pastry section houses giant croissants, canelés, vegan bliss balls, doughnuts, Danishes and cakes. The espresso machines are custom-made in Seattle for the brand, providing baristas with a tailored tool to make consistent drinks best suited to % Arabica’s coffee.

And apart from the classics, the espresso menu features a Kyoto Latte (which contains condensed milk), a Spanish Latte (more condensed milk), and a Dark Latte (which is essentially a mocha).

Notably, it is all very Instagrammable. As Eric puts it, “There’s a lot that can be learned from a well-planned café that works well for both patrons and employees. When a workplace and a public space feel organic together, it is a thing of beauty.”

He believes % Arabica caters to people looking for a comfortable third space: “The design is bright and open, and the designer clearly has thought about how the café will photograph. The aesthetic appeal paired with a familiar drink and a bit of cool factor go a long way.”

Drawing inspiration from % Arabica

% Arabica has become a true trailblazer in the specialty coffee industry thanks to its purposeful coffee shop design and branding. Each store is tailored to its location, as evidenced by the distinctive brickwork featured in their London locations. The brand’s success has made it a standout in the industry and act as a source of inspiration for coffee shop owners worldwide.

The minimalist aesthetic that % Arabica champions has gained considerable popularity in recent years. According to a survey, 59% of Americans prefer clean and minimalistic coffee shop design.

However, the appeal of minimalist design extends beyond its aesthetic benefits. In fact, it has practical advantages when correctly adopted. According to industry expert Eric, the less-is-more approach is ideal for coffee shops because it “reduces clutter and allows patrons to feel like they are part of the process”. As a result, customers feel more engaged in the coffee-making process, leading to a better overall experience.

Another hallmark of % Arabica is its custom espresso machines. These machines serve as the focal point in each store, providing consistency and quality with every cup of coffee served. By incorporating a attractive espresso machine, such as the Elektra KUP, into their coffee shop design, business owners can strike a balance between aesthetics and quality coffee service. Although a significant initial investment is required, Eric notes that it can pay off in the long run.

“Following in % Arabica’s footsteps would require a considerable amount of capital,” he explains. “But having a well-thought-out plan and a goal to aim towards will help guide coffee shops in the right direction.” By emulating % Arabica’s approach, coffee shop owners can create an unforgettable customer experience that sets their business apart from the competition.

When the first steam wand was invented in the early 1990s, it immediately transformed a simple cup of coffee into a work of art. Designed to inject pressured air into milk at high temperatures, it soon became the key to creating some of the world’s most popular espresso-based drinks, from cappuccinos to flat whites.

Steam wands work on a relatively basic premise: they introduce air into the milk, while unwinding its inherent proteins. This process begins at around 60-65°C. The hydrophobic side of the milk proteins clings to the air bubbles, while the hydrophilic side holds the water close, creating a protective jacket around the air and capturing it within the liquid. This results in a light, airy, and velvety texture.

By submerging the steam wand and positioning it slightly off-centre, a whirlpool motion is created, forcing the air to stir into the milk and whisking larger air bubbles into microfoam – the smoothly textured milk used to pour latte art.

At the same time, lactose breaks down into simpler sugars, making the milk taste sweeter, and balancing the flavour profile of the final beverage with the nutty, chocolatey, or stone fruit flavours of espresso.

Today, steamed milk is a staple in almost every coffee shop around the globe, providing a warm, creamy, frothy texture that enhances the overall coffee-drinking experience. However, while they remain popular, they are not without their flaws. And in recent years, a clever team of innovators have hit on new ways to create milk foam that may make put the steam wand out of business.

The problems with steaming milk for coffee

Steaming milk for coffee is a delicate art, demanding an intricate set of skills that must work in unison. Getting the texture and temperature of milk just right can take months of training, and even then, it’s very easy to make mistakes. Adding too much air or overheating the milk can very quickly lead to disappointing results.

According to Nicole Battefeld-Montgomery, a champion barista and winner of both the German Barista and Brewers Cup championships, steaming milk for coffee is a complex process that requires mastery of a range of skills.

“Beginners often find steaming milk to be the most mysterious part of the coffee-making process, as it requires a set of skills that work together,” she says. “Motion skills, temperature skills to feel the correct temperature, and the ability to listen to the milk as you can hear if milk gets steamed wrong or too hot. Perfectly steaming milk for coffee usually takes a lot of practice.”

Overheating the milk can also lead to denaturation, a process where proteins lose their initial structure, resulting in fewer proteins being available to stabilise the foam. Once the temperature reaches beyond 65°C, sugars in the milk break down further, and negative flavour characteristics begin to take over, such as a burnt oatmeal taste.

What’s more, when temperatures exceed 70°C, the milk can burn your tongue and damage your taste buds, rendering it difficult to taste anything.

Using steam to heat milk also adds moisture, which dilutes the milk and alters the final texture. As a result, a pitcher of milk being steamed can increase in mass by 10-15%, as the steam condenses into water within the milk. It’s vital not to re-steam milk, as this can cause further breakdown of the sugars and proteins, while also introducing more water into the milk.

Going steamless

Finding a better way to froth milk is no easy task. The process has remained fairly untouched for more than a century, with new inventions typically just tweaking the formula rather than transforming it.

However, Milan-based espresso machine manufacturer Heylo Coffee recently hit on a technique that could change steaming milk for coffee forever. 

Its “milk module” uses technology that froths milk to the same quality as a steam wand without the use of steam. The aerated liquid is passed through a venturi system, which froths the milk by incorporating air into the liquid.

“We inject air into the milk with a proportional air valve before heating it,” says Heylo’s chief commercial officer, Jaime Gamoneda Larripa. “Depending on the texture we want to get from the milk module, we can work with different air levels to give more or less thickness to the milk.

“From our testing, it gives more density to the milk and so better quality of milk foam, and allows us to deliver cold milk foam’, Jaime says. This is a great function for babycinos and iced drinks.

Frothed milk then passes through two induction coils: one to heat the milk gently, the other to bring it up to the target temperature. The milk is then ready to be dispensed into the pitcher.

When the milk has finished dispensing, water is pushed through the coils to clean out the system with a 0.5-0.7% contamination rate.

This means Heylo’s milk module can run two milks. For example, dairy milk can be served alongside oat – an advantage for cafés with less experienced baristas, as steaming non-dairy milks often proves to be more difficult. Although the process takes a little longer than steam wands, Jaime explains that it helps protect the milk, whether dairy or non-dairy.

“The entire process of delivering 200ml takes 27 seconds, depending on the foam level, milk temperature, and type of milk,” he says. “We prefer to take a little longer compared to our competitors because we prefer to gently heat the milk up.

“This way, we preserve the milk proteins so they don’t break down, and we don’t burn the milk sugars. Thanks to that, we retain as much flavour as possible in the milk. Moreover, we are sure to avoid all sediments from burnt milk that can damage our milk circuit.”

With so many advantages over steam wands, however, the question then becomes whether baristas are ready to accept the change. But as someone who has competed with traditional steamed milk, Nicole says she is ready to back any innovation if it reduces the impact of human error.

“Taking away the moisture from steaming helps create a smoother texture with a more velvety mouthfeel,” she says. “I am a fan of automation and erasing human error from any step of the coffee-making process.”